Manger La Ville!

MOMMA'S CHILI

2010-02-08T16:36:00.000-08:00

My mother is a great cook. I probably don’t get her enough credit; I don’t want her head to get too big. But she really is amazing; definitely one of the reasons I cook for a living. She taught me at a very young age the importance of home cooking and about using quality ingredients (local, organic beautiful ingredients). Enough bragging. She makes a mean chili. The key, great spices. Yes the quality of your spices makes a difference.

Black Bean and Hominy Chili

We like to soak our own black beans (Rancho Gordo of course) and hominy. But you could use canned. For the spices, toast your spices in a pan to release all the flavors. And add more to your liking. We get our spices from Tierra Vegetables at the SF Ferry Building Farmers Market.

1 medium onion diced

1 large can of tomatoes

2 cloves of garlic thinly sliced

2 red bell peppers (or one green, one red) diced

3 cups Black beans or 2 cans black beans

1 ½ cups Hominy

1 tablespoon Smoked onions (this gives it a nice smoky flavor, while being vegetarian. If you are not a vegetarian, you could use ham hock or bacon – or some delicious pork product of your choosing)

½ tsp. Cayenne gold

¼ tsp. Chili powder

½ tsp. Paprika

½ tsp. Cumin

Salt to taste

Garnishes:

Cilantro chopped

Grated Monterey jack cheese

Thinly sliced scallions

In a large pot, sweat the onion, garlic and pepper with a large pinch of salt and the toasted spices. When translucent, add the canned tomatoes, the beans (with liquid – if you cooked your own, keep the liquid and add about a cup). Add the hominy and the smoked onions. Let it simmer to let the spices and flavors meld, about an hour. Adjust seasoning. Serve and garnish with cilantro, scallions and Monterey jack. I also like crema, avocado, queso fresco or thin strips of tortilla chips.

ENJOY!!!

MangerLaVille proud to announce QuicheQuiche

2009-11-10T15:06:00.000-08:00

While I do like writing on my blog, I love cooking far better. Sometimes I would rather not deal with computers at all, but spend all my hours cooking and baking. Due to my high entrepreneurial spirit, I have a new food venture. Quiche Quiche provides seasonal quiches and salads. Check out my website www.quichequiche.com. Quiche Quiche is also working with www.mealnextdoor.com providing delicious weekday lunches. You can order directly on the site and we deliver to all San Franciscans. I am very excited about this project and I look forward to cookin' up some great lunches. If you don't live in the SF, tell a friend who does.
Here is a nice quiche picture for all of you to lust after.

Open Faced Portobello, Roasted Tomato and Goat Cheese sandwiches

2009-09-29T17:06:00.000-07:00

If you didn’t know, I moved to SF. Along with this, I have started working in restaurants and the only chance I get to cook for myself is for lunch. SO lunch is a big deal now. And I like to make it special and delicious.

HOW TO MAKE

When the tomatoes start to fade, (like when they over-ripened on your counter), I slice them drizzle with olive oil, salt, thinly sliced garlic and thyme and roast them in the oven at 375 for about 15 – 25 minutes. The tomato flavor becomes hyper concentrated and well seasoned, perfect for any sandwich.

I thinly slice Portobellos, first taking out the gills with a spoon. I thinly slice onions and I sauté them in olive oil, until very translucent and starting to caramelize. I add the portobellos and cook. I like my mushroom to have some color. I deglaze with balsamic vinegar and cook until dry. Don’t forget to season.

I toast up bread in the same pan in some olive oil until golden brown. I spread some pesto on the toast. I make a lot of pesto and freeze it. It actually works out really well. Slice my favorite goat cheese, from Bodega Goat Cheese. Honestly his goat cheeses are incredible. Plus he shows me really cute goat pics. I deviate; I put a slice on the pesto-smeared toast, pile on the mushrooms and onions and top with your roasted tomatoes. Chiffonade some basil and sprinkle on top and drizzle some finishing olive oil (this means use the good stuff – I like McEvoy)

LUNCH IS SERVED

Yes…I had to show two pictures, because they were that good… and that pretty.

Lunch in Four Small Plates:

2009-08-24T11:29:00.000-07:00

1. Salmon with a couscous salad and lemon mint vinaigrette
2. An early girl and orange cherry tomato salad with basil
3. Fresh peaches with a lemon pound cake
4. Figs and peaches with an aged goat cheese

I love making small plates so your palette isn’t tired but your stomach isn’t left empty. One of my favorite things to do is to challenge myself to use of EVERYTHING in my refrigerator. Couscous transforms into a salad with sautéed summer squash, pine nuts and fresh herbs. A quick vinaigrette of grated lemon zest, lemon juice, red wine vinegar, minced shallots, olive oil and lots of mint gets poured over the salmon and drizzles down onto the couscous. The key to a great tomato salad is to season appropriately. Many times we forget to add enough salt because they already taste acidic. But trust me, adding salt to tomatoes balances out the acidity and actually brings out the more sweet complex flavors. And use the best vinegar and olive oil you can get. Tomatoes only deserve the best. I find it better to toss them first with vinegar, salt and pepper. Then taste and adjust the seasoning. Then drizzle on some fruity olive oil. I like a lot of basil, almost to the point where it becomes an herb and tomato salad. And for dessert a cheese plate and my grandma’s lemon pound cake paired with fresh peaches.

If you want any particular recipe please let me know, I would be happy to post it.

Publican: A Chicago Shrine for the Hog

2009-08-15T22:37:00.000-07:00

Visiting Chicago was such a treat. I know of their culinary reputation, full of heavy hitter chefs and molecular gastronomy. But perhaps due to missing New York, I picked the newest and most New York-ish to try. Publican is situated right outside of the loop next to some very swanky club. And to be honest, Publican seems more crowded and noisy than its neighbor. Communal tables stretch over the long dining room. Placed intermittently throughout are standing tables, kind of like bar seating. A throw to the past bar lines one wall, while other walls are adorned with large almost grotesque pictures of pigs. The assorted country-style plates are mismatched to give it a more rustic feel. Their beer selection was remarkable. They have quite a few beers on tap, ones that are very unique and are rarely seen on tap. Not too mention their extensive bottled beer and wine list seems endless. The beers we tried were complex yet well balanced and very very drinkable.
The menu is divided unconventionally, not by appetizers, mains and sides but by category like seafood, pork (yes pork is a category) and vegetables. Things are meant to be shared and vary in portion size. While everything looks delectable, we had to start with pork rinds. Now the one’s you get in bags at your grocery store will pale in comparison, unremarkable to say the least and unnatural in pigginess. These pork rinds seemed freshly fried, delectate with a subtle porkiness. They were lightly coated in what seemed to be chili oil. The next dish we tried were mussels done with ale and beautiful crusty baguette. The mussels were succulent and the flavors were spot on. I truly enjoyed the ale version than the common white wine. We then tried their infamous half chicken, summer sausage and fries. The chicken in brined in molasses and brown sugar and then grilled. Brining ensures deep penetrating flavor throughout and a moistness that can’t be beat. (I have gone one in length about the virtues of brining) The chicken was almost perfectly cooked; one side of the breast was a tide dry while the other side was tender and plump. The summer sausage was spectacular especially with the chicken. They are known for their vast charcuterie, making various hams, terrines and sausages, and this sausage demonstrated their expertise. The fries were very different than a common fry; they had an earthiness to them, which I couldn’t figure out how they acquired it.
For dessert, a strong cup of coffee and their famous Belgian waffle with strawberries and honey butter. I will say the waffle was my least favorite part of the meal. While crispy and buttery, the dish seemed to be lacking. I am not one to complain about simple desserts, I believe those are the one’s you crave and yearn for most. But it just didn’t strike me as exceptional and a sauce was desperately needed.
Publican is a restaurant dedicated to PIG, yet they execute everything with ease. The tension between refined restaurant and country home seems to find a balance here at Publican. Overall, this popular new restaurant lives up to his reputation and shouldn’t be missed if in Chicago.

Grilled Chicken Summer Salad

2009-07-21T18:16:00.000-07:00

Yes its true, no salad as a meal. At least that is the name of one of my favorite blog's and Jeffrey Steingarten devotes a whole chapter in The Man Who Ate Everything about the hazards of salad. But I think this salad can truly be considered a delicious meal, bursting with summer flavors. A quickly made radish and cucumber pickles elevates this salad from the mundane starter to a fully satisfying meal. It is fun festive and not at all mine. I have Gourmet magazine to thank for this delicious salad. Yes, it is a lot of work, but if you have left over chicken and pesto (we keep some homemade in the freezer) you can whip this up in no time. Don’t want to make pesto. I say just make a basil vinaigrette, and it will still have that herb-y punch.

GRILLED CHICKEN SUMMER SALAD

SERVES 6

ACTIVE TIME: 1 ½ HR START TO FINISH: 1 ½ HR

FOR VINAIGRETTE

5 Tbsp red-wine vinegar

1 Tbsp plus 2 tsp fresh lemon juice

1 Tbsp Dijon mustard

1 small garlic cloves, minced

¾ tsp sugar

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup chopped chives

FOR RADISH-CUCUMBER SALAD

4 cups water

1/3 cup kosher salt

2 Tbsp sugar

4 garlic cloves, smashed

1 tsp black peppercorns

1 bunch radishes

4 Persian cucumbers or 1 seedless cucumber

½ cup packed flat-lead parsley leaves

FOR CHICKPEA SALAD

1 (15- to 19-oz) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

¼ cup finely chopped red onion

1 Tbsp chopped mint

FOR GREEN BEAN SALAD

1 lb haricots verts or other green beans

½ cup whole almonds with skin, toasted and coarsely chopped

FOR GRILLED MUSHROOM AND CHICKEN

¾ lb fresh cremini mushrooms, halved

¾ lb fresh shitake mushrooms, stem reserved for another use and caps halved

2 lb skinless boneless chicken thighs

1/3 cup basil pesto

FOR TOMATO SALAD

2 medium tomatoes, cut into ½-inch thick wedges

¼ cup thinly sliced basil

FOR LETTUCE

4 cups thinly sliced romaine, Bibb, and/or Boston lettuce

EQUIPMENT: a perforated grill sheet

MAKE VINAIGRETTE: Whisk together all vinaigrette ingredients, except oil and chives, with ½ tsp salt and ¼ tsp pepper. Add oil in a slow stream, whisking until emulsified. Whisk in chives.

MAKE RADISH-CUCUMBER SALAD: Boil water with salt, sugar, garlic, and peppercorns in a 4-qt pot, uncovered, 10 minutes. While brine boils, trim and halves radishes. Halve cucumbers lengthwise and cut crosswise into ½-inch thick slices. Remove brine from heat. Add radishes and cucumbers and let stand, uncovered, 10 minutes. Drain in a colander, discarding garlic and peppercorns. Transfer radishes and cucumbers to an ice bath to stop cooking, then drain well in colander. Transfer to a large bowl and chill, uncovered, about 20 minutes.

MAKE CHICKPEA SALAD: Stir together chickpeas, onion, ¼ cup vinaigrette, and salt and pepper to taste.

COOK GREEN BEANS: Cook green beans in a large pot of well-salted boiling water, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until just tender, 3 to 6 minutes. Drain. Transfer to a large ice bath to stop cooking. Drain again and pat dry.

GRILL MUSHROOMS AND CHICKEN: Prepare grill for direct-heat cooking over hot charcoal (medium-high heat for gas). Toss mushrooms with 2 Tbsp vinaigrette and marinate 10 minutes. Grill mushrooms in 2 batches on oiled grill sheet, covered only if using a gas grill, stirring frequently, until golden-brown, about 5 minutes per batch. Toss hot mushrooms with 2 Tbsp vinaigrette. Season chicken with ½ tsp each of salt and pepper. Oil grill rack, then grill chicken over medium-hot charcoal (medium heat for gas), covered only if using a gas grill, turning chicken occasionally and moving it as necessary to avoid flare-ups, until just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes total. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. Cut into ½-inch thick slices and toss with pesto in a large bowl.

DRESS SALADS AND ASSEMBLE DISH: Toss brined cucumbers and radishes with parsley, 3 Tbsp vinaigrette, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir mint into chickpea salad. Toss beans with 2 Tbsp vinaigrette and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with almonds. Toss tomatoes with 3 Tbsp vinaigrette, basil, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss lettuce with 1 Tbsp vinaigrette. Arrange chicken, mushrooms, and salads side by side on a large platter and serve remaining vinaigrette on the side.

COOKS NOTES: Vinaigrette, without chives, can be made 1 day ahead and chilled. Add chives just before serving. Radish-cucumber salad, without parsley, can be made 1 day ahead and chilled. Add parsley just before serving. Chickpea salad, without mint, can be made 1 day ahead and chilled. Ass mint just before serving. Haricots verts can be cooked 1 day ahead and chilled in a sealable bad lined with paper towels. Mushrooms and chicken can be cooked in batches in an oiled hot 2-burner grill pan over medium-high heat.

JUST FOR FUN: Check out Little Girl in the Kitchen Videos. Watch one of my favorite 11 year old's cook like she is the next Giada. I have been cooking with her for some time and she truly has exquisite taste. Plus, all recipes in her videos are hers truly.

Apology and a long needed break....

2009-04-17T18:51:00.001-07:00

I am sorry I haven't posted in a long time, neither have been reading as many blogs.
Writing a blog is hard work. And lately I have been short on time. A lot is happening in my life, cooking school, internship and a job...plus I am trailing at various restaurants to find an externship. I promise to be back, when my energy is up. I appreciate your readership and I hope I haven't driven all of you away. And I will be back hopefully in a week....

Asian Carrot Slaw

2009-03-15T14:20:00.000-07:00

This Asian carrot slaw makes use of beautiful winter carrots that comes in all colors. Although with this light fresh flavors, it will remind you that spring is on its way.
I know I should give you quantities. But I don't measure too often and I believe the best way is to taste, 1. you will develop your palette 2. you can fine tune it to your likes and dislikes.

ASIAN CARROT SLAW
1 bunch assorted carrots cut thinly on a bias
1/2 a head of cabbage, thinly shredded
1 large red bell pepper in a small julienne
4-5 scallions thinly sliced on a bias
1/2 bunch cilantro leaves and stems (yes you can eat the stems!!) finely chopped and some wgole for garnish

To make the vinaigrette, combine:
You want to taste to have a balance of sour, sweet and spicy:

Rice wine vinegar
Sugar (or use agave or honey)
Sesame oil (just a few drops)
Peanut oil
Salt
Sambal (hot sauce)
Sesame seeds
Grated ginger

I served this slaw with a miso marinated piece of halibut. It was delicious.

You might not know this, but I am highly interested in all issues pertaining to food, especially how our food is produced in America. I try to be open minded about new ways to create sustainability. I thought this article "Spoiled: Organic and Local is so 2008" was well researched, and yet controversial. Not everything I agree with. But I do think the ideas addressed in the piece are compelling: 1. We need to take action now, not later, now 2. And we might want to look at sustainability from all angles, to food miles, pesticides, feeding everyone, cost and so forth. Let me know your thoughts.

Duck Confit: How To

2009-03-01T20:03:00.000-08:00

Duck confit is a process, like anything good it takes time, care and a lot of love.
Confit means braising in its own fat.
I prepared duck confit for my wonderful boyfriend. We love eating it at the Modern (NYC), as well as Balthazar, even Egg (Brooklyn) has a pretty swanky southern version. I paired mine with a blood orange sauce, a simple arugula salad with blood oranges and pommes lyonnaise (a thinly sliced potato cake). But it can be eaten a number of ways.
Duck confit was a way to preserve the duck during the winter. After being braised in its own fat, it is stored in a cold place. It lightly ferments giving it a more complex flavor, kind of like cheese. The duck leg can be taken out of the fat and reheated, pair it with a cabbage, chestnut and walnut salad for a winter meal, or serve it over mushroom risotto to complement the richness. Any way you serve it, you will sure enjoy the benefits of your very own duck confit.

The duck confit process is a long one, but not unattainable for the home cook.

1. Remove the thigh bone from the duck legs, but keep in the bone for the drumstick. Trim off excess fat.
2. Make a rub of salt, shallots, thyme and parsley in a food processor. Liberally rub all over the duck legs. Places in a colander or perforated pan with a pan or bowl underneath. Place a weight on top of the duck legs. This is to draw out excess moisture.
3. Put in the fridge overnight.

NEXT DAY
1. Scrape off the rub and heat a lot of duck fat into a large rondeau.
2. Add bay leafs, thyme and black peppercorns. Just a decent sprinkling of all.
3. Place duck legs in the fat and place a plate on top.
4. Put in a 300-degree oven. They will probably take 3 hours. They will be tender and delicate.
5. Store the duck legs in their own fat and refrigerate. The more they sit, the more they ferment.
6. When you are ready, carefully lift the duck out of the fat and place on a rack over a sheet tray. Bake at 400 until skin is crispy and delicious.
7. Serve and enjoy the duck of your labor!!!

Where to buy duck legs ( make sure they are Moulard):

D’Artagnan :http://www.dartagnan.com/
Citerella sells Hudson Valley Foie Gras
And check out the Farmer's Market in Union Square for other local purveyors.

I would like to apologize for not posting in a while. I got addicted to a TV show, “Friday Night Lights.” Don’t start you will be addicted…it will suck you in and consume endless hours. But I am back….and ready to blog!!!

Here are a few of my favorite things…

2009-02-16T08:16:00.000-08:00

This post is dedicated to my delicious food discoveries that I have made. I hope to share a few of them with you every month. Feel free to send me an email with your recommendations.

Jasmine Pearl Tea

Jasmine pearl is a fragrant but light green tea. Each grey/green leaf is left in tact, and rolled into a little ball, looking like a cocoon of a moth. Actually it is supposed to look like little pearls. In hot water, the leaves unwind from their ball and release their full aroma. This tea is a perfect afternoon treat, mellow, perfumed and sweet.

These tea leaves are plucked from the Fuding Da Bai Cha plant, processed like green tea and then scented with jasmine flower. They are hand rolled into pearls. For that reason, this tea is a bit pricier but worth it.

I purchased my tea at the Imperial Tea Court at the Ferry Building in San Francisco. You can also purchase it online at many websites.

Whole Foods Organic Seeduction Bread

Maybe this could be a great Valentine’s day loaf? I mean the bread is called “seeduction.” But I have my own theory. Once you get one bite, you will become seduced by all the seeds and you won’t be able to stop. Good, since its chock full of seeds and whole wheat.
Did you know birds don’t really have a sense of taste, they like the tactile experience of food, that is why they like crunchy things, like seeds. I am not saying this loaf would be good for a bird, but to be honest, it does have a lot of the same seeds you might feed to one: millet, poppy seeds, sunflower seeds.

This is definitely a bread for the seed lover, if not, you might be surprised that you were (again not trying to say you are a bird.) It is nutty, dense but not too dense, makes you feel a bit healthier , and has a subtle sweetness.

What it taste great with: honey and bananas, farmers cheese with fresh herbs, shallots, a little olive oil and vinegar, or some high quality butter.

Want to try to make this loaf yourself: check out t his recipe.

Pickled Eggs

Who would have thought this southern specialty (and an English bar food) would be so immensely delicious. These pickled eggs are pickled with beet juice (the water the beets were cooked in), apple cider vinegar, sugar, salt, bay leaves, thyme, onions and garlic. The hard boiled eggs taste pre-seasoned, and with their unusual color it make them an oddity that would be the talk of your next party. Or you can make some for your acidic hungry boyfriend ( like I did.)
Check out this pickled egg chow hound post to get inspired to make your own:

Brown Sugar Pound Cake Cupcakes with a Brown Butter Glaze

2009-02-08T10:06:00.000-08:00

I am kind a sick of all these cupcakes. That’s why I chose to make more of them. I am a girl of many contradictions. But these cupcakes are such that in my mind they don’t necessarily qualify as one, ( honestly anything in a cupcake shape is a cupcake. If it looks like a cupcake, it is.) Yet, the pound cake texture makes them less of a cupcake more of a dense brown sugary individual pound cake, glazed with a brown butter glaze. I loved the nutty roasted flavor of the brown butter; it really complemented the brown sugar pound cake, making the flavors a bit more intriguing.
You can find the recipe for these delicious cupcakes at Martha Stewart's website (the cupcake queen. She is even coming out with a cupcake book!) Click here for the recipe.

BROWN BUTTER?
Perhaps you don’t know what it is, or perhaps you think it is simply burnt butter. It is not and learning how to make it will prove very fruitful:
1. You can make this cupcakes.
2. Brown butter or beurre noisette in French makes such a nice accompaniment to many other things: gnocchi, pasta, winter squash, sautéed sole and much more.

How to properly brown butter:
First you need to realize what your outcome should be: Burnt will taste well, burnt, acrid and highly disagreeable. Browned butter will taste highly aromatic, nutty and roasted. Browning butter is simply caramelizing the solid milk fats. Harold McGee says:” Their flavor is deepened by heating the butter to about 250F until its water boils off and the molecules in the white residue, milk sugar and protein, react with each other to form brown pigments and new aromas.” I think the best way is to slowly heat it. This way you have much more control. You can see the colors start to slowly change. I would take it off the heat right before it hits that deeper nutty color, due to carryover cooking.
For instance, in this recipe, the butter needs to cool. By cooling it you can easily pour off the brown butter and not the milk solids floating at the top.
To see pictures and a step-by-step tutorial, check out Michael Rhulman’s blog.
ENJOY!!!

Artichoke Pizza

2009-01-31T12:52:00.000-08:00

After doing what seems like endless amounts of dishes in culinary school, I am exhausted. I want to:
1. Get away from my classmates who decided to be lazy and did nothing but watch some of us do all the dishes
2. Sit down and never get up
3. Vegetate and distract myself with fun things (eating anyone?)

When I got to accomplish all these activities, I was in a much better mood. I met my friend and decided to try a decadent and giant pizza at artichoke. Artichoke Pizza has an old New Yorker appeal, but with a gourmet sophisticated touch. It is simply a storefront, no tables, just a counter, where you order your pizza or slice and huddle on the sidewalk (no matter if it is a cold winter night.) The ceiling is an art decoWe ordered a whole pizza (for two-quite ambitious seeing as though they serve one size 18 inches.), the artichoke and spinach. This creamy white pizza, with bubble up brown cheese and crispy chewy crust was filling and amazing. It was a very comforting pizza. It taste as though someone smeared artichoke spinach dip over the pizza, added a few tender artichoke leaves and some mozzarella and baked it to oozing savory perfection. It was a very different pizza than I was used to, not a bad thing. But different. I have never really had a creamy pizza. It is something you can’t eat too much of, or maybe you can and just get really sick. We paired this pizza with woodchuck hard apple cider, which seemed like the perfect beverage with this pizza. Sweet granny smith cider cut the heaviness and creaminess of the pizza. For that day, after all those dirty dishes, artichoke pizza was what I definitely needed. It is an indulgence for sure.

Artichoke Pizza
328 E. 14th street
NY, NY 10003
212-228-2004

Commitments to Being Healthy

2009-01-25T18:38:00.000-08:00

Going to cooking school is hard. You are probably thinking, all the burns, the standing on your feet, the endless repetition. You are wrong; it is the endless consumption of food, good food, but fatty and rich (most of the time.) So this year is a fresh start and that means battling my cooking school consumption. How will I do it? Cook more…. By cooking at home, I can make healthy and flavorful meals. I don’t really think it terms of healthy, but what I enjoy eating. It just so happens this recipe is both healthy and delicious. I used the recipe from Martha Stewart Living. Asian fish en papillote contains in its pouch wild fluke with bok choy, lime, hot chili, and cilantro. I made a side of rice (I used brown) with shitake mushroom and scallions. I added a few touches to bump up the flavor. I sautéed the shitakes in sesame oil.
And I also add a splash of soy sauce to the papillote which when cooked creates a balanced sauce.
I make extra brown rice and mushroom so I can make fried rice the next day, with veggies and tofu. 2 healthy meals in one.
Here are the recipes:

Fish en papillote
Serves 4
Zest from 2 limes, finely shredded
3 limes juiced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 piece (2 inches) ginger, peeled and julienned
1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced
2 mild to spicy red chilies, halved
4 fillets (6 oz ach) black bass, halibut, or striped bass (I used fluke)
4 head baby bok choy
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
8 sprigs fresh cilantro

1. Preheat oven to 450. Mix lime zest and juice, garlic, ginger, onion and chilies in a medium bowl. Fold four 20-inh pieces of parchment in half lengthwise. Unfold and place 1 fillet and 1 head of bok choy along each crease. Rub both with 2 tablespoons oil, and season with salt and pepper. Top each fillet with some onion mixture and 2 sprigs of cilantro. (Here is where I sprinkled a little soy sauce over the top.)
2. Fold parchment over fish, making small overlapping folds along the edges and sealing with a paper clip. Place on rimmed baking sheet. Roast until parchment puffs, 10-12 minutes. Carefully cut packets, avoiding escaping steam and serve.

Jasmine Rice with Shitakes and Scallions
1 ½ cups water
1 cup jasmine rice, rinsed well
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse salt and pepper
4 oz shitake mushrooms, stems discarded, caps cut into ¼ inch thick slices
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon rice-wine vinegar
1 scallion cut into 2 inch-long pieces, thinly sliced lengthwise

1. Bring water and rice to a boil in a small pot. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until water is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in 1 tablespoon oil, and seasons with salt and pepper. Cover and let stand.
2. Meanwhile, heat remaining oil (I used a little sesame oil) in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add shitakes in a single layer, and cook, stirring often until browned and crisp, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and cook for 2 minutes more. Add garlic and cook until light golden brown. Stir in vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Transfer rice to a platter, top with shitake mixture and sprinkle with scallions.

White Bean and Fried Sage Crostini

2009-01-17T20:28:00.000-08:00

It is always hard to find appetizers that are seasonal, delicious and bite size. I love the white bean crostinis at Otto, Mario Batali’s pizza place in New York. They are drizzled with olive oil and hot pepper flakes. I used to only go to Otto’s on Tuesday, because that’s the only day they have them. So, I decided to make my own. I used Rancho Gordo beans. They are the most fabulous beans and honestly, if you try them, you will never want to eat a canned bean again. Yeah, they take a little bit of work, you have to soak them for hours and them cook them for another hour or so. But your hard work pays off. I think when people realize the versatility and diversity of legumes; they will be bean lovers for life. My boyfriend has become one, and it makes me really proud.
To honor these delicious white beans, I like to keep it simple to really taste the creamy interior. I mashed them up slightly with garlic and garlic oil, as well as the oil the sage was fried in, topped with crispy fried sage and hot pepper flakes, just like Otto’s. Serve them on the finest slice baguette you can find, quickly toasted. (I like Acme bread in San Francisco; you can’t beat it.) This makes such a perfect nibble before dinner. And with leftover beans, you can make salads or soups.

RECIPE:
I didn’t really measure, but I will do my best. You can use cannellini, butter beans or navy beans, any white bean will due.
1. Soak a bag of beans in water, at least 2 hours. But this depends on freshness. If the beans are relatively fresh they only need to soak 2 hours, if not, they need longer. If you don’t have dried beans, skip to step 3.
2. Strain the beans and put into a stockpot, cover with water, add 2-3 garlic cloves, some black peppercorns and bay leafs. Do not add salt during cooking, this toughens the beans up and they will take much longer to cook. Simmer beans uncovered (this allows the gas to release – so you don’t later) until tender. Add salt when beans are tender. And drain the beans.
3. In a small pan, add garlic cloves and oil and do not let them brown. Cook until soft. Pour the oil and garlic and mash with white beans.
4. Fry sage in a small sauté pan with olive oil. Remove when crisp and drain on paper towel. Season with salt when removed from oil. They should be crisp and have turned a darker green. Add oil from cooking sage to mash the beans. Mash the beans, but keep some whole, you want to see some shape and keep their integrity. Season with salt and pepper as desired.
5. Slice baguette, brush with olive oil and toast in a 400 degree oven. Bake until golden brown.
6. Place bean mixture on top of baguette, sprinkle with red chili flakes and top with fried sage.

If you like a smoother mixture, puree in a blender. And for an added kick, drizzle aged balsamic before adding the fried sage.
Enjoy!

Rancho Gordo Beans
Farmer's Market at the Ferry Building (San Francisco)
www.ranchogordo.com

The Shrimp Cesar

2009-01-12T21:25:00.000-08:00

Shrimp marinated in lime, sautéed until lightly golden pink perfection with home made croutons, romaine, sliced thin red onion, and Parmesan curls all tossed in my white balsamic and tangerine oil vinaigrette. This salad is inspired from a Martha Stewart Living recipe, but then re-interpreted by yours truly. It is light refreshing, bursting in fresh flavors. The citrus livens things up, but you still get that Cesar salad fix. It makes for a perfect light meal, that is sure to please.
I have to take a second and talk about the olive oil that I use in this recipe; it is just incredible. It is tangerine olive oil from StoneHouse. It is a bright orange color with a sweet citrus-y aroma, still having the full-bodied complexity of olive oil. It livens up salads, or could be drizzled on top of fish or seafood. I used it in my re-interpretation of this Cesar salad, but I just recently used it on some roasted beets.
Here is a quick recipe for Shrimp Cesar; I don’t think it needs much explanation:
De-vein and peel wild gulf large prawns and toss with salt, pepper, lime juice and lime zest.
Sauté quickly in a sauce pan over high heat until pink and lightly caramelized. Be sure not to over cook.
Cut cubes of baguette, toss with olive oil and salt and bake at 450, until golden brown. I love homemade croutons, and it is a great way to use up day old bread.
Chop romaine and thinly slice red onions. Combine with croutons and toss with a vinaigrette of tangerine oil and white balsamic. (If you don’t have this fantastic olive oil, feel free to add orange zest, with a little orange juice to red wine vinegar and olive oil). Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Add shrimp and Parmesan curls. Plate, Serve and EAT!

To get StoneHouse oils, check out www.stonehouseoliveoil.com or visit the Ferry Building and stop by their stall.

Nettie's Crab Shack

2009-01-09T19:48:00.000-08:00

Nettie's Crab Shack is situated in the Marina of San Francisco, a place I rarely visit, due to its infamous reputation of elitist snobbery, without the good food to match. But when Michael Bauer, SF food critic mentioned his new top picks for 2009, Nettie’s crab shack made the list. With enticing descriptions of fresh crab and a modern take on American classics it sounded delicious and perfect for my crab addiction.
Nettie’s Crab Shack is a simple, slightly nautical themed restaurant with an open kitchen and blackboard specials. The cocktails are nothing short of fun and whimsical like a Boston freeze with bourbon, a spiced Louisiana lemonade, and a stellar bloody Mary. All delicious!
We ordered the manila clam steamers, which were highly aromatic with bay leaf and celery. A few clams had a little grit, but it wasn’t too bad. With the clams, we ordered a pail of shoestring potatoes, super crispy and rosemary scented.
I tried the crab roll served with pickled vegetables and homemade potato chips. The crab is simply prepared in tossed in drawn butter served on a soft fresh brioche like bun. The pickled vegetables added some needed acidity. And who can beat home made potato chips. The crab Louis salad, a San Francisco salad was re-invented with lil’ artichokes, beets, green olives and crab tossed in a peppery vinaigrette. The olives and beets worked really well with the crab. All the crab was succulent and fresh.
I also tasted the whole grilled petrale sole served with sweet and sour onions and roasted brussel sprouts. The whole grilled fish was light and flaky and the onion “marmalade” made the dish!
While Nettie's is no fine dining, it does classic American Crab shack well, really well.
Desserts were retro and cute, but nothing special. Pictured are the little lady caramel apples, the best ones we tried. But common, I was here for the crab anyways. Plus try Crab Sunday which offers a bountiful spread with a whole crab per person.

Nettie's Crab Shack
2032 Union Street
San Francisco, CA
415-409-0300
www.nettiescrabshack.com

Root Beer Chocolate Bundt Cake by BAKED

2009-01-05T19:39:00.000-08:00

What better way to start the New Year than indulging? To be honest, I made this before the New Year and brought it to a Benefit Concert at Death by Audio (a Brooklyn venue), and who ever donated money got a slice. It is good to give. This chocolate root beer bundt cake is supremely moist and flavorful. Root beer is used not only in the batter but also in the frosting. We used the best root beer we could buy: Virgil's. It isn't made with corn syrup, it is micro-brewed and you can truly taste notes of wintergreen, vanilla and sasparilla. I am not sure it was necessary to buy the best root beer, since it is going in the cake. Hey, never hurts to start with quality. And for all those who cannot make it to Baked, the wonderful shop in Red Hook Brooklyn, you can now try their decadent sweets. Baked is all about whimsical and retro desserts, plus they taste amazing. The root beer chocolate bundt cake is no different, delicious and sumptuous. Even my grandmother has been begging for the recipe.
The root beer flavor was more present the first day, even though they say in the cookbook it will be stronger the next. This cake is slightly decadent but a sure crowd pleaser, plus it makes everyone feel nostalgic and wonderful (well maybe a little bigger in the waistline.)
You can either buy the Baked Cookbook or just click here for the recipe.

Happy New Year!

Also, I am writing about my culinary school adventures on a great website called Chef’s Blade, a resource center for culinary professionals. I talk about my culinary experiences… the people I admire, techniques and fundamentals. If you can’t get enough of me, go check it out.

Pumpkin Gnocchi with Brown Butter and Sage

2008-12-14T20:45:00.001-08:00

During the holiday season, there is no shortage of pumpkin puree, whether a can or freshly pureed. With extra pumpkin, I decided to make gnocchi. I always eat gnocchi when I go out, like the ricotta gnocchi at Zuni’s or chard gnocchi at Café Eloise, but I have never attempted to make it myself. There are different methods to making it. I made a pate-a-choux type dough, cooking in a pot, until it forms a smooth orange ball. This is the recipe I used as a basis for my pumpkin gnocchi. In this recipe, they use shaved white truffles in their brown butter. I was not so fortunate to acquire these. Rolling out all the gnocchi took some work, but it was well worth it. The gnocchi turned out excellent, delicate soft pillow with a wonderful pumpkin flavor. The sage gets nice and crispy and imparts an earthy herbal tone to the nutty butter. Brown butter is simply with the milk fats becoming caramelized, this doesn’t mean burnt, but brown, smelling nutty and fragrant not acrid. The only challenge in the dish is trying to serve a crowd at the same time, due to the fact you need to cook the gnocchi in batches. If you have a solution, other than making people wait, let me know. And enjoy some gnocchi!

Buttery Biscuits, just like EGG

2008-12-07T20:10:00.000-08:00

Inspired by the delicious biscuits from EGG, I was on the mission to recreate it. I wanted that buttery, mile high, flaky and tender biscuit that I munched on just a few weeks ago. After scouring the Internet (ohh.. Internet, you supply me with endless recipes), I stumbled upon a true perfect biscuit. Click here for the recipe. I use lots of sweet butter. Make sure that the butter is as cold as possible and don’t overwork it. The butter should remain in pea size chunks in order to give it its flakiness. And remember, do not over-roll, the biscuits should be nice and thick.

I served these delicious biscuits with orange butter (which was made from a simple syrup with orange zest and a little juice) and maple butter (maple syrup). But endless variations can be made, or simply top with fried chicken, or incorporate some chopped chives into the batter. This biscuit is one I can stand behind or at least eat about ten. Does it match up to Egg, it was pretty close, and you know until I get their secret recipe this is good enough for me.

What would you add to the dough? And what would you serve them with? And if you have a recipe to beat, please send it along.

EGG - Where the South meets Brooklyn

2008-12-03T21:24:00.000-08:00

Egg, a small restaurant in Williamsburg, is as simple as its name. A hipster, farm house setting with the chefs sitting outside talking amongst each other on less than crowded evenings (they just opened for dinner). Communal tables, all white walls, and simple florals adorning each table. It is my ideal setting, now all I need is a little farm to supply all the food. Oh wait, they do that to. They bought a farm in upstate New York to supply them with an ultra local supply of fresh produce.
Egg explores not only the egg, but also the chicken who laid it. Fried chicken reigns at this egg shack. The chicken is crispy, succulent and reminiscent of my favorite little nook in Brooklyn, Pies and Thighs. Pies and Thighs, with homemade donuts, honey butter, perfect biscuits and mouthwatering chicken…I miss it so much. That is why I am so glad Egg snatched up the fried chicken master (the chef) from Pies and Thighs, so I can taste some of that goodness yet again.
The fried chicken is perfectly crisp, golden brown and ultra moist. It is served with fluffy, ultra buttery biscuits and smoky delicious collar greens.
Yet, egg is known not only for what hatches from it, but the egg itself. The sampler plate highlights how this restaurant got its name, with two egg preparations, pickled eggs and deviled eggs served with ham, pickled beets and green beans. The pickled eggs were delicious, just enough brine to give the egg a nice acidity. The deviled eggs are extremely flavorful with fresh herbs. And of course, the country ham was thickly sliced served along side farm fresh cheddar and tomato jam. Plus who doesn’t love picked veggies.
I also tried the duck and dirty rice with figs, which was a nice modern southern dish.
Served with two preparations of duck, a dug leg “confit” which was falling off the bone, the seared duck breast was good but not as good as the confit. Delicious succulent slices of fig (slightly gooey and a whole lot of sweet) were the complement to the duck. The dirty rice was slightly sweet with little crispy bacon pieces.
Overall, Egg is simple rustic southern flare, but with a Brooklyn attitude. Egg is the kind of down home cooking you crave even if you don’t have food memories associated with it. And be sure to try the fried chicken….

Turkey 101

2008-11-24T21:14:00.000-08:00

Dedicated to Gina, may your turkey wishes comes true.

For all those out there that can’t seem to get their turkey right, I am here to help. Follow my simple instructions, and you should be fine. But I am not guaranteeing anything. I mean maybe if I could come you help you and your Mr. Gobble, I could perhaps guarantee. My family and I make some pretty great turkey and with the help of some culinary school instruction, I believe to have a pretty good method for making a crispy skin, juicy bird. Read on, follow along and feel free to email any questions you have. And those who know how to cook a wonderful bird feel free to give any suggestions.

WHY I LOVE TO BRINE, but I won’t be mad if you don’t want to. Brining makes the turkey flavorful all the way through, not just its crispy skin. Brining not only ensures flavor but moistness; dryness being the most common ailment to Turkeys. Look at the bottom for brining instructions.

1. Preheat your oven to 450.
2. Take your turkey out of the fridge at least a ½ or an hour prior to putting the bird in the oven.
3. Stuff the bird with aromatic such as thyme, sage, onion, garlic, and lemon. I wouldn’t stuff the bird with stuffing, because as my teacher says “You are playing Russian Roulette with your health.”
4. Truss the turkey. Tuck back the wings. Make sure to secure the drumsticks. If you have no clue how to truss a turkey, click here. This is important to create a more uniform shape, hence more even cooking = BETTER BIRD
5. Turkey rub down: rub the bird with melted or softened butter and generously sprinkle salt and pepper all over the turkey.
6. Place the turkey on a roasting rack inside a shallow roasting pan. If your pan is too deep it will not cook evenly and not brown. Make sure a majority of the turkey is above the sides of the pan. Elevation is key. It should not touch the bottom of the pan.
7. Place the turkey in a 450F oven for 20 minutes. Then turn the temperature down to 350F. Now just some simple math. The turkey should cook at 350 for 16-18 minutes per pound. So just know the weight of your bird and multiply that number by 17. There you go, an approximate cooking time.
8. To tell if it is done, do not trust anything that pops up out of your turkey. Take its temperature, 165 is done. If it is 160, don’t worry, you can still take it out, because of carry over cooking when it rests.
9. Rest the bird. It should rest for half the cooking time for up to an hour. No one ever rest the turkey enough. While it is resting make your pan gravy, heat up all the rest of the turkey accoutrements in the oven. If you do, it will turn out so much better and more moist. Cover with foil when it rests.

HOW TO SAVE YOUR BIRDY
So it is not cooking: turn the oven to convection instead of bake
Not Brown: turn the oven back up to 450 for another 20 minutes.
Too Brown: turn down the oven temperature a little and place aluminum foil over the bird.

BRINE IT UP!!!
1 cup sugar
2 cups kosher salt
2 ½ gallons water
2 bay leaves, torn into pieces
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled
5 whole allspice berries, crushed
4 juniper berries, smashed

Clean the turkey by removing giblet bag, any extra fat and any pin feathers. Rinse well under cold tap water.
Combine the sugar, salt and 3-4 quarts of water in a large bag. Stir until sugar and salt dissolve, and then add the remainder of the brine ingredients except for the remaining 1 ½ gallons water.

Double-bag two heavy-duty, unscented trash bags, (not made of recycled materials), then put them in an ice chest that is large enough to hold the turkey. Place the turkey in the doubled bags, pour in the brine, then the remaining 1 ½ gallons water – there should be enough liquid to completely submerge the bird. Press out all the air in the bags, and then tightly close each bag separately. Keep the turkey cold with bags of ice, which will also help keep it submerged in the brine. Brine for 12-24 hours.

Crispy Beer Battered Shrimp Fritters with Ale Gastrique and a Fall Slaw

2008-11-16T18:30:00.000-08:00

I entered a contest at my school, which wanted us to incorporate Allagash Black beer into a recipe. Unfortunately I wasn’t selected, but I think this recipe is still delicious. Feel free to use any stout like beer. And if you want other recipes that include beer check out their website: www.allagash.com. I also want to thank my cousin David, for helping me develop the recipe.

Crispy Beer Battered Shrimp Fritters with Allagash Black Gastrique and a Fall Slaw
This delicious yet sophisticated appetizer is sure to please anyone. The tarragon vinaigrette slaw highlights this season crop of winter roots: carrots, celery root, fennel and cabbage. The ale gastrique is a balance between rich, sweet, sour. And you can use the rest of the beer in your batter.

SHRIMP FRITTERS
1 cup flour
1 egg beaten
1 ½ cup Allagash Black Ale
1 cup chopped scallions
Canola oil 2 quarts
18 16-20 count Gulf Prawns (or rock shrimp), de-shelled –deveined and cut in half width wise
Salt to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste

ALE GASTRIQUE
2 tablespoons shallots
2 tablespoon + 2 tsp. honey
2 cup Allagash Black Ale
2 tsp. vinegar
Salt to taste
1 tsp. canola oil

SLAW
2 ½ cups shredded cabbage
1 ½ cup shredded carrot
1 ½ cup shredded celeriac or celery root
1 cup thinly sliced sweet red onion
1 ½ cup shaved fennel

VINAIGRETTE
1 tsp mayonnaise (homemade or store bought)
5 tsp vinegar
½ cup olive oil
2 tsp. finely chopped tarragon
Salt and pepper to taste

Shrimp Fritters:

1. Clean and Cut shrimp season with salt and cayenne to taste.
2. In a medium bowl, combine flour, egg, scallions and beer and whisk to combine. Let the batter rest ½ hour to an hour before using.
3. Fill a pot with canola oil, at least 5 inches up the pot. Heat over medium high heat.
4. When oil reaches 360, batter shrimp, by placing each piece in the batter and then place in the hot oil, deep fry, about 2 minutes.
5. Place on paper towel to absorb excess oil and sprinkle salt while hot.
6. Cut in half for presentation.

Slaw:

1. Use a mandoline to shred all ingredients.
2. Combine celery root, fennel, carrot, onion and cabbage in a bowl.
3. Toss with vinaigrette

Vinaigrette:

1. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, red wine vinegar and finely chopped tarragon. Add salt to taste.
2. Slowly whisk in olive oil to form an emulsion. Adjust seasoning and toss to coat slaw. If extra, reserve for another use.

Ale Gastrique:

1. Coat bottom of a small pot with oil. Heat oil.
2. Add diced shallots and sauté until slightly caramelized.
3. Add honey.
4. Add beer and reduce down until it makes a thick syrup
5. When the consistency is achieved, adjust seasoning with salt
6. Add the vinegar and take off the heat

Note: In order for the freshest fritters follow this order:
1. Heat oil and make batter
2. Start ale gastrique
3. Make slaw
4. Deep fry fritters
5. Finish ale gastrique
6. Plate

This is sure to impress , a sohpisticated way to use beer and a perfect appetizer for the holiday!

El Beit: for the coffee-curian in all of us

2008-11-09T20:01:00.000-08:00

coffee-curian: A person who loves and knows good coffee, somewhat elitist, addicted to bold flavors and caffeine. Thinks coffee beans are semi-precious amber jewels.

I am not a coffee-curian but I like good coffee, let's just say I know good coffee when I taste it. Blue Bottle is my favorite in San Francico but nothing has captivated my palette here in NYC. Recently, I found my Blue Bottle equivalent.
Here comes a new breed of coffee shop in Williamsburg where the coffee takes center stage. El Beit cares about one thing: amazing espresso and coffee without the unnecessary frills of syrups and concoctions (like at some coffee establishments located every 2 ½ blocks.)
The latte is strong, yet there is no bitter after taste, just smooth and bold.
Like Blue Bottle, they always make a design in the latte, a beautiful leaf that not only demonstrates the deep hue of espresso but the creamy foam on top.

They have a beautiful orange Marcazzo espresso machine, which provides the only color in contrast to the metal pipes and wood tables. It stands out as a sleek mean coffee machine. The "baristas" take time and care with each drink, something you rarely find at most coffee shops.
The only downside is the location; the ubber trend master hipster location can make it unbearable. But I am happy these hipsters can appreciate I good European espresso.

El Beit
158 Bedford Ave
(between 8th St & 9th St)
Brooklyn, NY 11211

Cheesy Baked Penne with Crème Fraiche and Cauliflower

2008-11-02T13:50:00.000-08:00

Cheesy Baked Penne with Crème fraiche and Cauliflower with a Wild Mushroom Salad

Pasta enveloped in a creamy sauce of aged Gruyere and Fontina (which melts up exceedingly well) and a kick of crème fraiche to make it extra creamy with a bit of acidity with seasonal cauliflower. I can’t claim this recipe to be mine. But you can get it by clicking here from Bon Appetit. Here are a few of my recommendations: I would roast the cauliflower to develop a full-bodied flavor instead of simply par boiled. Make sure to use Gruyere reserve, this mean the Gruyere has been aged which gives it a sharper and in my opinion better flavor to the dish.
I made homemade breadcrumbs, which is so easy and a great way to use up old bread. Simply dry it up in the oven and place in the food processor. (So much better than store bought.) But I won’t blame you for reaching for the can.

The wild mushroom salad with its earthy complexity makes a perfect complement to any ultra cheesy dish. I love to use a mixture of mushrooms: chanterelles, morels, shitakes and browns. I like to sauté them with a little white wine to boost the flavor factor. I let them cool and prepare the salad. I do a classic vinaigrette with shallots, Dijon mustard, olive oil and red wine vinegar. I toss with fresh lettuce from the farmer’s market and enjoy this sophisticated macaroni and cheese.

Lamb with Pomegranate Salsa Verde

2008-10-27T20:29:00.000-07:00

....with wild mushroom risotto and crispy delicata squash

After reading food Art (a wonderful professional food magazine), they discussed a pomegranate salsa verde that they served with squab. But I thought it would make an equally nice pairing spooned over the top of a local Sonoma grass fed lamb. This lamb is a bit gamier but exceedingly tender. Pomegranates are a wonderful fall fruit and one of my favorites. As a little girl, I would sit naked with newspaper and paper towel all around me tearing through pomegranates. With fond pomegranate memories, I couldn’t wait to pair this fruit with something savory. The pomegranate salsa verde is a mixture of fresh seeds, pomegranate syrup, ginger and fresh herbs. Unfortunately I didn’t measure out the ingredients but simply tasted the “salsa” to find the balance between herbs and pomegranate flavors.

Pomegranate Salsa Verde

To make the pomegranate syrup:
You can buy store bought pomegranate juice and reduce it down until it forms a thick syrup.
I mashed up pomegranate seeds to extract the juice. I placed this juice in a small pot with water and sugar, to form a pomegranate infused simple syrup, and reduced it down to thick syrup, where it is nape (meaning to coat the back of a spoon.)
In another bowl place:
Fresh pomegranate seeds approx. 1 cup
Grated ginger (1/4 tsp.)
Freshly chopped thyme (1/2 tsp)
Freshly chopped parsley (1/2 tsp)
Finely minced garlic (1/2 tsp.)
A good drizzle of olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Pour in the syrup enough to excessively coat the mixed ingredients. If it isn’t sweet enough, add a bit more. But I would veer to the less is more with the highly sweet syrup.
Lightly spoon over lamb chops.

Drizzled over lamb chops, the fruity acidity of the salsa gives a breath of freshness to the earthy dish of wild mushroom risotto, lamb and roasted squash. For the crispy roasted squash, I used a delicata prepared in the following manner:
Cut the delicata squash in half, de-seed and make ¼ -1/2 inch wide Half moon slices.
Place on a baking sheet and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper.
Put the oven to 425, (if it seems as if it was cooking to fast, turn down the temperature.) You will get an ultra crispy skin and a soft luxourious squash bite.
As for the wild mushroom risotto, follow any risotto recipe you love, but add coarsely chopped mushrooms (chanterelle, morels, shitake, brown, oyster…whatever you would like, but choose three) near the beginning of cooking. Even though this might discolor the mushrooms, it gives the risotto a fuller mushroom flavor without having to make mushroom stock.
ENJOY!!!

Review of Café Eloise

2008-10-20T21:34:00.000-07:00

I am always excited to try new restaurants. So when I heard about Café Eloise located in Sebastopol, I had to go. Eloise is a mélange of NYC (like a few hard to miss indulgences and your grandma’s Bubbe’s hand) with local sourced (really local, like their garden) ingredients (putting the ingredient on a pedestal- oh so Californian).
Eloise is located a bit out of the way in Sebastopol, very unassuming, even the décor is warm, yet nothing breathtaking. It seems cozy and trying to take nothing away from the food. The food itself matches this coziness, from cassoulet to the fatty richness of torchon of foie gras, roasted bone marrow and lots of brown butter.
For starters, the prawns from Santa Barbara tasted sweeter and more tender than lobster, done in a spicy oil. They were so fresh and succulent. Messy, delicious and again luxurious. The lentil soup (Morracan style) lacked a little spice and flavor. Yet it’s lightness was admirable but perhaps not what I envisioned. House cured sardines with thinly sliced celery salad were perfect complements. And the bone marrow was extraordinary, served with pain levain toasts and a parsley salad with cornichons, capers, and shallots to cut the fattiness and give it a much-needed acidity. Highly anticipated and decadent, I could have eaten just that and been quite content. (flowers in their garden)

For entrees, the chard and ricotta gnocchi were light flavorful pillows yet extremely rich with brown butter and sage sauce. Skate wing was again with brown butter but the artichokes and croutons were the perfect touches. A little too much brown butter was used, I would have liked to see another sauce, but it was a damn good brown butter.
The dessert menu seemed so uninspired I wasn’t even tempted. Plus the richness of the previous courses made it difficult to even think of dessert.
Café Eloise is just that, a great café with finely tuned comfort classics. It is worth a trip, and if you are in the neighborhood, it shouldn’t be missed. It will be interesting to see what comes of this little food haven.

Homemade Triple Berry Granola

2008-10-15T20:49:00.000-07:00

I love granola and for a while I have been wanting to make my own. It makes a lovely gift (I put some in a jar for my yoga teacher, with an oh so cute tag.) The Kitchen Sink (blog) gave me a basic recipe to follow which uses maple syrup, canola oil, brown sugar, vanilla extract, honey and sea salt. Click here to get the recipe. I followed her recipe for the liquid, but for the dried ingredients I mixed it up. But the versatility of granola is what makes it so much fun. Your creativity can be unleashed on these simple rolled oats. I chose a triple threat of dried blueberries, raspberries, and strawberries plus for a nutty side, I used thinly slice almonds and chopped walnuts. It comes out nice and toasty, fruity and obviously crunchy. Making it is so easy, I have no clue why I even bought it. No more store bought..now my yogurt will be topped with this crunchy HOMEMADE good stuff.

A side note: I want to formally give a special thank you to Ella Bella farms for providing me and my family with amazing produce over the years. I am sad to announce their departure from California and the market. In short, Ella Bella farms, you will truly be missed. They finally have achieved their dream of being able to purchase land in the great Big Island and continuing their farm. It has been a pleasure eating your food, and getting to know your family. I wish them only the best, even if I do shed a tear. I am jealous of any Hawain receiving their CSA box and organic chocolate.

Momofuko Noodle Bar: Review

2008-10-08T22:43:00.000-07:00

Its not like I haven’t been there quite a few times. I mean an affordable locally sourced refined noodle bar, what could be better? One of my favorite things is the raw bar, changing constantly with new fish and an assortment of oysters. The night I went, we tried the hamachi with beet sauce, freshly grated horseradish and thinly sliced apple. While I thought the hamachi, apple and horseradish complemented each other perfectly, sweet, buttery and spicy, the beet sauce was overpowered by the other strong flavors. While alone, the beet sauce was quite flavorful, it didn’t impart much to the overall dish. Yet the fish is so fresh and buttery it is well worth trying something from the raw part to start your dinner.
They are also known for their buns, containing chicken, pork or shitake mushrooms. Each variety is enfolded in a soft white delicate bun, containing the right amount of plum sauce, lightly pickled and thinly sliced cucumbers and of course very tender pulled meat with a delicious crispy crust.
But, this is a noodle bar, and that is where they excel. Home made noodles and extra flavorful broth makes these soups warming, ultra savory and complex. A deep roasted pork flavor is brightened by picked veggies and thinly sliced scallions. The noodles exemplify the chef’s dedication to the craft. Perfectly textured, and soaking up broth, these noodles can stand equally by themselves.
The one thing Momofuko lacks is consistency. The broth is sometimes too salty (or altering significantly from visit to visit) and despite how quick the plates arrive, sometimes two soups will come 10 minutes apart (at least they did for our order.)
Momofuko is a new breed, kind of like a designer dog. Refinement is key. Traditional Asian fare is lightened, re-worked and out comes Momofuko. Chef David Change is quite inspirational for me, a recent culinary graduate; he has created a mini-culinary empire. Not that I want a mini-culinary empire, well that would be nice. I am so envious (in a good way) of a young culinary grad who has big ideas, excels in his profession and is dedicated to the craft.

Momofuko Noodle Bar
171 first ave. btwn 10th & 11th
NYC

Let me know, what noodle shops are your favorite?

DID YOU SEE... oh yes, on the side of my blog, you can now subscribe to get updates when I post a new recipe or review on MANGER LA VILLE! How delicious. Just click, submit your email and get ready to consume often. HAPPY EATIN'

Braised Scillian Lamb Patties with Eggplant

2008-10-02T20:37:00.000-07:00

After reading Bon Appetite, I found an intriguing recipe that I had to try out: Sicilian Lamb Patties braised with eggplant pepper and tomatoes. Delicious lamb patties (or flattened meatballs) seasoned with herbs (mint and oregano) and Parmesan, braised in roasted eggplant spooned over creamy polenta makes for a great Italian inspired meal. Click here for the recipe.
Here are my tips and tricks:
Start the polenta as early as possible. Mario Battalli cooks in for 4 hours, Judy Rodgers of Zuni cooks it at least an hour. WHY? For extra creamy polenta. Instant polenta just doesn’t give you the same creaminess. Stir as often as you can, but don’t fret if you forget for a little bit. I bump up the creamy factor by adding a bit of butter at the end.
I did make a few substitutions, instead of pecorino I used Parmesan, just because I had it and I used oregano instead of marjoram, which I think was better suited for this dish. I topped it off with fresh mint. Make sure to get the pan really hot when searing the lamb patties, you want a nice crust.

So you bought a bunch of mint and all you need is a tablespoon: My short list for what to do with leftover mint:

Use it in your vinaigrette or add it to your next salad

Sautéed zucchini with garlic red pepper flakes and topped with mint (eat as is or toss with pasta)

Melon tossed with fresh mint and simple syrup (or agave)

Mint Pesto

Help fill out my mint list… tell me what you would do

Give me some good RUB: A review of NYC’s RUB

2008-09-28T08:07:00.000-07:00

Barbeque has always been good. But it hasn’t been until recently that it's had such fame. Its' peak came last year when Saveur Magazine named it’s top 100, #1 being, oh yes, you guessed it Barbeque. And since this southern specialty has been blossoming in the North, I have had the opportunity to gobble up this smoky meaty goodness. When I first came to New York, there was one place for Barbeque: Dinosaur Barbeque (which is simply incredible.) Since then, barbeque joints are sprouting up, Rub, Daisy May, Blue Smoke and many others. But this begs the question: are they any good? Are they as good as their Southern (to some more authentic) counterparts? Unfortunately, I cannot tell you whether these NYC barbeque shops match up to the south, since I haven’t visited the South. I know, don’t be upset Southerners. It has been long overdue and I cannot wait to go.
But for now, I have to settle for NYC Barbeque. I decided to try one of the most highly rated barbeque joints in NYC: Rub. The name is slightly deceiving because, it really is about two things here, there giant red smoker and their deep fat fryer. In all honesty their rub wasn’t the most impressive part of this barbeque equation. The red smoker is where all the action takes place: where cheap tough cuts of meat are turned into succulent, deeply flavorful, tender pieces of meat. The pulled pork reigns supreme, moist and slightly smoky, un-sauced, so you can add sauce or simply enjoy the pure flavors of the hog. The pulled chicken is also pretty tender yet less smoky. Their pastrami is not as moist at Katz, but is still fresh, warm and seasoned with a nice crust of pepper. The brisket was the only disappointing meat. It lacked all moisture, wasn’t able to fall apart (a tell tale sign, that 1. It could be old 2. It wasn’t cooked long enough.) Whatever the case, it needed some barbeque TLC.
The deep fat fryer provided amazing fried wonders. Crispy, slightly sweet and salty onions rings were highly addictive. Licking my lips after each bite allowed me to collect the salty particles left on my lips, while the sweetness of the onions dissipated on my tongue. The fried Oreos were equally sinful. Donut battered enveloped warm gooey chocolaty Oreos. I never had these before and it was quite an experience. Warm, soft and just plain delicious.
With Barbecue’s status comes a rightfully overdue appreciation for the craft. One that Rub accomplishes for the most part. I wish I knew how to make my own…to learn the craft like the barbeque masters. But for now I will leave it up to professionals. My adopted blogger father (oh yes…I have been adopted by a blog--- finally I have a home) is a reigning champion at home smoking specialties. He has the grill, the pictures and the know how to show you how to accomplish all your barbeque dreams. (Ok to be honest, if your barbeque dreams involved smoked dinosaur…I am not sure he can be of help.) Check out his blog which contains delectable recipes from a true southern gent: Mr. Orph’s Blog.
What is your favorite Barbeque restaurant or recipe? Let me know....

Pickle Me

2008-09-24T20:39:00.000-07:00

Ok...well maybe don't pickle me...but can we please pickle everything else.

The other weekend I just pickled myself out. It started when I decided to make homemade pickles for my boyfriend. I used the recipe from Dyln Blog, which was easy, quick and delicious. Click here to get the recipe. To be honest, I loved making the adorable labels for the jars. I used fresh dill stuffing it into each jar. It came out with that great herb flavor, a nice crunch and an oh-so cute presentation.
Wait, there’s more. A pickle weekend doesn’t stop there. I then went to the Pickle Festival that is held annually in the Lower East Side. Many pickle purveyors showed up along with their samples. I tried a variety of pickles (including the pickle on the stick). The pickled lemons and plums were so acidic; they made your tongue feel funny. The spicy pickled okra was tangy, not slimy and just the right amount of kick. In addition to the pickle stands, food stands were set up outside LES restaurants. After seeing sauerkraut whiz by me, I knew where I was going: to the food stand with the home made pretzels (soft and salty). I munched on sausage, home made sauerkraut and a delicious potato salad (made with vinaigrette – not mayonnaise based.) To learn more about the pickle festival click here.

Well, with all this pickle love going around, my mother, on the opposite coast, got the urge to make pickled cauliflower with peppers. Sadly, I haven’t tried her pickled veggies. But, in this case I will live vicariously through her. Click here, if you would like the recipe.
Overall, it was pickalicious. I have been a long time lover of anything pickled, similar to my love of confit (but that is a different post). I like those funny feelings on my tongue and I like the crunch of a cucumber that has been swimming in briny goodness. Pickle Lover for Life….

The Long Awaited Most Beloved Madeleines

2008-09-18T20:52:00.000-07:00

I lot of you have been waited for this post. And if you haven’t, you just didn’t know you were. Too be honest, there is nothing difficult about madeleines, if anything they are pretty versatile, orange, lemon thyme, lavender honey, chocolate. You name it. What is difficult is making sure to purchase the right pan and grease the pan in a way so the madeleines don’t stick. (This way they come out looking like gorgeous shells, not mutilated cookie specimens. I mean we need to make Proust proud…)
I use the recipe off of epicurious, but I like them a tad bit more lemony, so I add just a little lemon juice, like a teaspoon. It brings out the flavor of the zest. These one’s are not too sweet, highly addictive and the perfect accompaniment with tea, or just fresh from the oven (for some reason they hardly ever make it to tea.)
As I mentioned before, the pan is important. The pan really is the reason for these cookies, they create the shape, and equally attribute for the light fluffy texture. Do not use the silicon pan; it will be hard to remove the madeleines. I used a French tin pan that I picked up from Broadway Panhandler’s. This means I had to butter and flour for each batch. But I think a non-stick pan would work quite well. Just remember: if they stick, this can be a big problem, the shell imprint will not appear and the cookie can fall apart.
Click Here for the Recipe

My Side Note of Madeleines: Oh Proust!

Proust gets a lot of credit for the success for this cookie. And to be honest, I am not sure he deserves it. Why do I say this? Because Proust divulges in many things, not just French cookies. For Proust, many seemingly insignificant objects, food items, art can “déclenche” (to spark in French) a memory. Not just madeleines. So why has the food world harped so much on these few pages? Maybe his oh-so French idealism or his page long sentences intricately weaving food, memory and perception. I would just like to say, Proust is much more than this darling edible golden clam…
But if Proust can make the Madeleine some French fantasy you want to literally eat up, I say, why not? Divulge!

Nicky's Vietnamese Sandwiches: Asian Interior, French Exterior

2008-09-14T19:51:00.000-07:00

I love Vietnamese sandwiches, crunchy French baguette, fresh cilantro, pickled carrots, thinly sliced spicy peppers, crisp cucumbers and (for me) grilled chicken. Nothing has topped Paris for a delicious grab and go sandwich. A tiny little mom and pop shop was our daily lunch spot when we visited. Cheap and delicious, it demonstrates not only the quality of French bread but also what occurs due to factors of colonization. The Vietnamese sandwich is a by-product of what happens to food ways when one culture is subjected to the influence of the other.

Ok, so enough colonial talk, let’s talk taste. In Paris, they used some kind of animal fat instead of mayonnaise, which made it decadently tasty. But in order to get my fill here, I head to Nicky’s Vietnamese Sandwich Shop in the east village. Like the one’s in Paris, it is tiny with a limited menu. For the traditional sandwich, they combine ground pork, ham and of course pâté with the usual, cilantro, pickled carrots, cucumbers and mayo (which I never get, because I have always hated it.) The meat was tender and flavorful and the bread was fresh and French making it the perfect late night snack (or any hour you see fit.) The spring rolls fall flat, in both dipping sauce and flavor. But if you stick to the sandwiches, you are sure to enjoy.

Nicky's Vietnamese Sandwiches
150 E 2nd St
New York 10009
212-388-1088
http://www.nickyssandwiches.com/

What's your favorite place for Vietnamese sandwich shop?

LOBSTA

2008-09-08T20:21:00.001-07:00

I don’t eat much lobster, not because I don’t want to, but because I like it super fresh, right from the ocean. So I wait. I wait all year if I have to. Rhode Island is where you go to claim the lobster prize. It doesn’t hurt, that are next door neighbor introduced us to a secret lobsterman. Very undercover. We call him up, request some lobsters, go down to his house, which is on the breach way, and collect freshly caught sea crustaceans. A little transaction goes on, and we receive the booty, in this case, my lobsters.
I love my lobsters done simply, no fuss. I want to eat lobster, not stuffing, not overly rich sauces (even though that is nice), just the wonderfully tender sea flavored meat. So, my cousin (the chef), takes a bucket of sea water (from the ocean one I just swam in) with some sea weed, puts it in a large pot, over a wood burning fire and cooks the lobsters to perfection. (Before this happened, my little cousin fretted over the lobsters, a common reaction when looking at these sea monsters…see picture.)
They came out delicious, tender, with a sea flavor. All you need is a little drawn butter and some good hands (so you can search and dig for all that meat). I spend a really long time eating lobster; no crevice or part goes untouched. I suck each leg, dissect the body, crack each claw, and savor the tail. (Maybe that was too much detail.) If there is any lobster left over (which is hardly any, not from me at least, some family members aren’t as patient and determined to get all the meat), lobster salad is essential. But this time I made a lobster salad that was different from the traditional. A combination of thinly sliced fennel, corn and tarragon is the perfect complement to the succulent meat. Just chop up your lobster, thinly slice fennel, shave the corn off a cooked cob, and add some chopped tarragon. Simply dress with red wine vinaigrette and you get one amazing lobster salad. ENJOY!!!

Caracas: A Little Arepas Haven (or Heaven)

2008-09-05T21:10:00.000-07:00

Arepas: Savory Handheld South American Wonders

After seeing a just horrible movie, ( I mean, if I didn’t pay soo much, I would have left…I won’t disclose the title---I am not here to bad mouth movies), I needed to redeem the evening by gorging on some beloved comfort food at one of my old haunts Caracas, in the east village. Despite its quaint and intimate size, Caracas can' be missed. Just look for the hoards of arepas lovers munching and waiting outside. Caracas specializes in Arepas, a corn based sandwich stuffed with lots of different goodies such as shredded beef, avocado and cheese. They are simply delicious. My favorite is the de Pabellon, which is shredded beef, queso fresco, black beans and fried plantains. The sweet and savory play very well together and the shredded beef is oh so tender and moist. I have tried a few others which all seem to lack luster in comparison. The chicken is a little dry, but that shouldn’t deter you from trying the other vast combinations.
The guacamole is superb, highly seasoned with a secret combo of herbs and vinegar served with a side of chips (yucca, taro and other south American tubers) sliced thinly, fried perfectly, and sprinkled with salt. In addition, they have the assortment of aqua frescas and loads of south of the border beer.

Caracas ToGo
91 E. 7th Avenue
NY, NY 10009
Phone: (212)-228-5062

Poppyseed and Tarragon Crème Fraîche Dressing

2008-09-02T17:50:00.000-07:00

Recipe for Dressing from Fresh by Fine Cooking

I am back from a wonderful labor day with my family on the Rhode Island shore. I disconnected from the Internet and connected with my family and cooking. With an abundance of great seafood and summer’s bounty, I will have some great post in the upcoming weeks. As for now, I just got back home where I must read for cooking school tomorrow and unpack. But I won’t leave you empty handed. Here is a delicious dressing I tried this weekend. It is refreshing and pairs nicely with a heavy main or hearty chowder.

Poppyseed and Tarragon Crème Fraîche Dressing

¼ cup crème fraîche
2 Tbs. plain yogurt
2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh tarragon
1 Tbs. poppyseeds, lightly toasted inn a dry skillet
2 tsp. minced garlic
Pinch of cayenne
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper

In a small bowl, combine the crème fraîche, yogurt, chopped tarragon, popyseeds, lemon juices and garlic. Sir in 1 to 2 Tbs. water to thin the mixture to a creamy salad-dressing consistency. Season with salt and cayenne to taste.
Use a local variety of lettuce, dress and enjoy!

Halibut Cheeks in a Soy Broth with Green Onions, Ginger and Cilantro

2008-08-27T19:50:00.001-07:00

Halibut Cheeks are one of those delicacies that are simple wonderful: delicate in flavor and texture, they are sweeter and more tender than the halibut fillets.
They need very little cooking time so beware; you wouldn’t want to ruin the creamy soft texture by overcooking them. We found halibut cheeks at the Farmer’s Market and just had to snatch them up. I sautéed them and then cooked them the rest of the way in a soy broth. With the added flavors of fresh cilantro, green spring onions, and ginger giving the dish a freshness and spice, which added depth to the broth and a freshness to the dish.

Recipe:

Serves 2-3 people
6 halibut cheeks
2 green onions thinly sliced
½ bunch cilantro cleaned and
1 tablespoon soy sauce
½ cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons Thinly sliced ginger
1 tsp sesame oil

Heat sesame oil in a large sauté pan. Salt and pepper the halibut cheeks and place them in the sauté pan over high heat. Flip when they have a nice sear. Add the broth, soy sauce and ginger and let reduce down. When halibut cheeks are cooked, around 5 minutes or less, place them in a shallow bowl, spoon out broth in the dish and garnish with cilantro and sliced green onions. Serve and ENJOY!

Madeleine Patisserie

2008-08-24T20:30:00.000-07:00

A little French Patisserie sits amongst the busy 23rd Street in Manhattan, awaiting pedestrians to look in at the lovely display cases filled with fruit tarts, croissants and of course a seemingly endless amount of macaroons. What? Did I just say macaroons? Despite this bakery’s name, it isn’t known for the Proustian delight, but the French macaroon. Macaroons epitomize luxury with their delicate yet ultra sweet quality. I mean, common, they were Marie Antoinette’s favorite. At Madeleine, macaroons come in many flavors: the common, chocolate, raspberry, pistachio, vanilla, and more intriguing and experimental flavors, Caramel Fleur de Sel, Port Wine and Chocolate, Lavender, Rose Water.

Here are the one’s I tried:
Pistachio Orange: I do not like the overtly green color, and lack of pistachio flavor, but the orange came through nicely.
Caramel Fleur de Sel: This one was one of my favorites. It had a nice balance between salt and caramel. A warmth and smooth quality permeated throughout this two-bite delicacy.
Port Wine and Chocolate: The port wine tasted more like grape juice, and the chocolate was much more of a milk chocolate, surprisingly lacking in chocolate flavor. Overall, in concept this one sounds interesting, but in fact, it fell flat and needs work.
Apricot and Champagne: Here you could taste more of the champagne; a light fruity wine came through. The apricot was a nice pairing and this one worked much more successfully than the port wine.
I will note, that since these macaroons are slightly refrigerated, they need time to come to room temperature, to restore their chewy delicate quality and for the flavor to release. Since being under a time constraint, I did not allow them to sufficiently come to room temperature, which I assume affected the taste and texture slightly. But these macaroons were still delicious. Although my favorite macaroons I have tried thus far in America have to be from M i ette, the patisserie in San Francisco. They have the perfect texture and the grapefruit is well, incredible.

Madeleine Patisserie
128 W 23rd St
(between 7th Ave & Avenue Of The Americas)
(212) 243-2757

Easy Summer Pasta: Summer Squash with Basil and Mixed Mushrooms

2008-08-22T18:53:00.000-07:00

I make this pasta way too often, but with different combinations depending on the season. For fall I do roasted cauliflower, mushrooms and roasted peppers. Or asparagus, peas and mint for spring. But for each one, I use oil with garlic, lemon zest, red chili flakes. It works well with an assortment veggies, while providing a little heat, a nice acidity and of course garlic goodness. For this variation, the summer squash and basil is light and summery while the mushroom brings this airy combination down to earth. This makes an easy weeknight meal without too much fuss but an outcome that’s just simply delicious.

Recipe

1 box Fusilli Pasta
4 summer squashed, halved and thinly sliced
A handful Crimini mushrooms, roughly chopped
A handful of oyster mushrooms, roughly chopped
A handful of shitake, roughly chopped
5 cloves of garlic, minced
Dash of red pepper flakes
1 zest of a lemon
½ bunch of basil – chiffonade
3 tablespoons of olive oil plus more for sautéing and roasting.

Spread the mushrooms on a baking sheet and sprinkle with salt and olive oil and roast for 10-15 minutes at 425 until cooked and lightly caramelized. In a sauté pan, coat with olive oil and place squash and 2 cloves of the chopped garlic in a pan over medium heat. Boil water for pasta, and heavily salt. Cook pasta for indicated time, make sure it is a little al dente. Meanwhile, in a small sauté pan, heat 3 tablespoons of oil, the rest of the garlic, red pepper flakes, and lemon zest. Heat up and toss over strained pasta. Add sautéed squash, roasted mushrooms, and fresh basil. Then, season with pepper and salt to taste. And don’t forget some freshly grated Parmesan Reggiano.
Enjoy!

Baked

2008-08-20T15:29:00.000-07:00

A Red Hook institution for baked wonders might be far away for some New Yorkers, but now that Ikea has opened, a flock of newcomers (like me) have come to taste some sugary goodness. This bakery gets a lot of press, and from the orange front and chic interior, I can see why. But it isn’t just the lovely surroundings but the baked goods.
Parking my large obtrusive U-Haul in front of the store, I climbed out to try a few of these infamous baked goods.
The red velvet cupcake with cinnamon frosting topped with a red hot was by far the best thing I had there. The red velvet was deep in flavor exuding just enough chocolate. It was ultra moist and topped with the silky smooth and wonderfully complementary cinnamon frosting (just enough cinnamon, but not too overwhelming.) Perfectly sized, I devoured in way too short of a time.
The chocolate cookie sandwich filled with vanilla cream was extra generous in size and tasty. While I do admit, I prefer the ones at Westville (NYC) with a chewier softer, more rich in chocolate cookie, this one was still quite good; yet the vanilla filling was quite firm.

Finally we tried something savory, cornbread with chorizo. While I am not a big fan of meats in my baked goods, my boyfriend (the meat lover) was eager to try it. It was nice and smoky, but I though it was too dense and moist. It lacked that crumbly light, buttery-ness that I look for in cornbread.
Overall, I would make it out here for there amazing cupcakes and slices of cake. You can make a day of it, by going past the athletic fields and picking up some tacos. Pork Chop Express has a great post about the variety of tacos and aqua frescas in Red Hook. Then swing by Baked for your sugar fix.
Baked
359 Van Brunt Street
Brooklyn, New York 11231
718.222.0345

Peanut Butter Sandwhich Cookies

2008-08-17T17:52:00.001-07:00

I love peanut butter cookies, but sandwiched between a sweet creamy peanut butter filling is even better. These little nostalgic sandwiches recall a memory I am not sure even existed. A childhood snack with a tall glass milk, why couldn’t it be my memory? Mostly I came home to sliced cucumbers (which is one of my favorite snacks.) But peanut butter cookies with more peanut butter sandwiched between are decadently good and pretty easy to make. They are a great cookie to bring along anywhere, as they hold up well in any arduous cookie situation. (Well I have not tested this, but they hold up better than most of their cookie counterparts. If you cannot think of an arduous situation for a cookie, just use a little imagination. Example: stuffed into purse, stomped on by elephant) I brought these cookies to the Giant’s bleacher seats. These cookies just begged me to take them, and they suited this American past time quite well. Common, you have all heard of baseball and peanut…
I used Martha Stewarts’s recipe. While she is the queen of domesticity and all things crafty some of her recipes in Martha Stewart’s Baking Handbook fall flat (or else I am just a poor baker. I assume it is a little bit of both.) But she does some pretty tasty cookies. I used an all-natural, slightly chunky peanut butter, but it is up to you how you would like your cookies. I am just going to go on one little rant: Please pick all natural, do you really think it is necessary to put corn syrup in peanut butter. Peanut butter is supposed to be just that, peanuts crushed up until the consistency of butter. So respect the peanut!)

Here is the recipe:

Peanut Butter Sandwich Cookies
Makes about 3 dozen sandwich cookies

2 cups all purpose flour, plus more for dusting
½ tsp. baking soda
¼ tsp salt
1 ½ sticks (3/4 cup) butter, room temperature
¾ cup smooth peanut butter, preferably natural
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup packed light-brown sugar
1 large egg
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
Peanut Butter Filling (recipe follows)

In a bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, and salt; set aside. Place butter, peanut butter and both sugars in the bowl of the electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment; beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the egg and vanilla, and beat to combine, scrap down the sides of the bowl, if needed. With mixer on low add reserve flour mixture and beat until incorporated, about 1 minute.

Divide dough in half and shape into two flattened disks. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight.

Preheat the oven to 325 F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to a ¼ inch thickness. Using a sharp knife, cut dough into 2 1/2 –by- 1-inch rectangles. I cut a thick piece of paper with these measurements and used it as a stencil. I traced by knife around it. Much easier than eye balling it. Using the floured tines of a fork, score the top of each cookie. Transfer cookies to prepared baking sheet, placing ½ inch apart, and refrigerate until firm, about 15 minutes.

Bake, rotating sheets halfway through, until lightly golden around the edges and firm in the center, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

Using an offset spatula, spread 1 tbsp. filling onto the flat sides of half of the cookies. Sandwich with remaining cookies, keeping flat sides down. Unfilled cookies can be kept in an airtight container for up to a week. Once filled, cookies are best eaten that day, but can be kept in the fridge for up to 3 days.

Peanut Butter Filling
Makes enough to fill 3 dozen cookies.

6 tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature
¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
¾ cup smooth peanut butter, preferably natural
3 tbsp. heavy cream

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachments combine all ingredients. Beat on medium high speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Use immediately or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate u to 3 days. If refrigerated, let filling stand at room temperature to soften, you might have to stir or beat to attain desired consistency.

San Francisco's SPQR

2008-08-15T19:23:00.000-07:00

SPQR is replacing a long time favorite Chez Nous for unpretentious locally inspired Italian food, with lots of antipasti and wine to choose from. It had big shoes too fill…but with all the hype, I expected great things.
Antipasti are by far the star of this restaurant choosing from cold, hot, or fried. The wild arugula salad with ricotta salata, figs and peaches was delicious and summery. The fried sardines (eaten whole) were crispy, delicate and aromatic of the sea and were served with pickled cucumbers and bean puree. The fried cauliflower was tender, crisp, with a nice lemony note and saltiness from the capers. The cecini beans were equally delicious done with onions and kale. The kale slightly disintegrated created a quasi-sauce for the beans. It was earthy, warm and flavorful.
The pastas were all quite good, but lacked in finesse that what would have been expected. The pasta is home made and keeps that feel in both presentation and flavor. A pork ragu, a tuna puttanesca, and cannelloni stuffed with beef and kale all seemed like something your grandma could make (or at least mine could make it.) While the pasta was good, the flavors were homogeneous and to be quite honest, since I love making pasta, I am uber-critical.

Dessert was not quite what we expected or wanted. The plum fritters, deep-fried plums, lacked sweetness in the batter, which was needed for the tart plums, even despite the sweet crème anglaise dipping sauce. The panna cotta was not so much a panna cotta but a parfait of cherries, chocolate pot de crème, cake, and whipped cream. While this is partly the fault of the menu, inaccurately describing the dessert, panna cotta is best without all the embellishments. Cake simply wasn’t necessary and detracted from the creamy panna cotta. To be honest the panna cotta lacked all gelatin, so more of a pot de crème, yet not creamy enough to be able to be called such.
Overall, go there; get some wine, and delicious antipasti. Perhaps SPQR has the curse of Chez Nous, excellent small plates. Hey, I don’t think anyone would mind that curse.

SPQR
1911 Fillmore Street
San Francisco, CA
(415) 771-7779

Delitia Italian Butter

2008-08-12T15:22:00.000-07:00

The Italians may not be known for their butter due to Louis XIV of France refusal to use oil and make butter the national fat of choice. Italy does have cows, and does make some pretty good butter. Butter de Campagna, a country style butter wrapped in paper, taste very creamy and delicious. It is light in color and is made in the region where they make Parmesan Reggiano. I like to use this butter for pasta, but its light flavor makes it great for composed butters.

Where to find this butter:

In San Francisco:
Rainbow Grocery Store
1745 Folsom St
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 863-0620

In NYC:
Commodities Natural Market
165 1st. Ave.
New York, NY 10003
Cross Streets: (between 10th and 11th St.)
(212) 260-2600

If you can’t find this butter, Fork and Bottle blog does a review of various artisinal butters. Delitia is reviewed along with others. So, if you can’t find Delitia, you are bound to find one of these delectable butters at the store.

Also, I was just written up on Becks and Posh for my blog. So, a big thank you to Sam.

Panna Cotta with Berries

2008-08-11T11:24:00.000-07:00

When I was in Rome, I had the most delicious panna cotta, milk custard, topped with wild berries, strawberries, blackberries, blueberries and raspberries. It was creamy, sweet and just plain comfort food. I had to go back to the restaurant to get it again.
I have even adored and lusted over the panna cotta with pomegranate sauce at Incanto (San Francisco restaurant known for its offal). After wanting it more than I had opportunities to eat it, I decided to make it.
Its simplicity surprised me, and made me realize why did I ever pay so much money for this dessert out at restaurants. A few ingredients, which included, cream, half and half, sugar, vanilla bean, and gelatin with a minimum of cooking makes this a perfect dessert for a dinner party. A beautiful presentation, a creamy decadent taste with minimum effort. I topped mine with crushed raspberries and sliced strawberries from our garden:
I am giving you the link from epicurious in which I cut this recipe in half to make 4 ramekins.
Click here for the recipe.
I did substitute the vanilla extract for the vanilla bean. I think it gives a more complex yet mellow vanilla flavor. I scraped the bean and placed it in my cream mixture with the pod. Before adding the cream to the gelatin, I removed the pod. I love to see a sprinkling of vanilla bean. I also think it is important to use quality cream. Since cream is the predominant flavor, pick the very best. I enjoy Strauss’s cream; it is sweet and ultra thick, perfect for this dessert. Panna Cotta is quite versatile; in The French Laundry Cookbook they serve a cauliflower panna cotta, making it savory. But the creamy milk custard allows you immense creativity, plum sauce, kumquats, three citrus etc…
Enjoy this delectable Italian dessert!

Oyster Love: A Review of Hog Island Oyster Bar and my insatiable appetite for oysters

2008-08-08T22:59:00.000-07:00

In French, seafood is called fruits de mer, and rightfully so. They are the fruits of the sea, but in particular one mollusk reigns supreme: The Oyster
The rich salty brine encapsulating the fleshy sweet meat is slurped up way too quickly. The oyster taste like the water it is in, kind a like terroir for wine or in this case, a merroir (tasting of a particular sea.) Oysters can be eaten raw, having the perfect shell, possessing a nice curved lip that allows for easy slurping. But they can be fried, grilled, baked and enjoyed many other ways, but in all heat methods, they risk being overcooked. A good chef wouldn’t do this to the mighty oyster.
The local favorites I indulge in each weekend our Kumamotos and Sweetwaters. Kumamoto oysters are very small, and have a salty sea like flavor. Sweetwaters are bigger and meatier having a much sweeter quality. Both are delicious paired with a simple minuet, which adds a bit acidity to complement the salty sweet creamy mollusk. I get these at the farmers market from Hog Island Oyster at 8:30 am. I don’t care what time I get them, as long as I get them.

Today, we went to Hog Island Oyster Bar, in the Ferry Building. Having a very limited menu of oysters, manilla clams prepared 3 ways, baked oysters, salads and really good beer, there may not be a lot to choose from, but who needs to? We started off with raw oysters again Kumamoto and Sweetwater and then got baked oysters done with butter and tarragon. The baked oysters were enhanced with the buttery goodness, making them seem succulent, meaty and oh so sweet. We then had a beautiful salad of white peaches and beets (more on my recreation of this salad later). We also enjoyed manilla clam (which are small tender clams) steamers, opening up their shells in a shredded pork and slightly spicy broth, accentuated by bitter chicories and cecini beans.
The clam chowder was equally impressive, tasting of cream and leeks but not thick at all. With big chunks of potato and clams in their shell, this made for one of the best chowders I have ever tried. Funny it was on the west coast, since east coasters would be up in arms about such claims. But its true, a west coast mentality towards food (putting the ingredients on the pedestal) works for these bivalve creatures. The oyster should always be the star and Hog Island truly sees their potential.
Check out Hog Island online:www.hogislandoysters.com

Summer Pazanella Salad with Tomatoes

2008-08-06T17:58:00.000-07:00

What to do with old epi acme baguette, oh, just a quick light meal. A delicious pazanella salad is created by using old toasted epi bread, cubed with some fresh early girl tomatoes (from Dirty Girl, at the Ferry Building), fresh red onions and Bodega Goat cheese (from the mart as well). I also added a few chopped chives and parsley.
Pazanella salad would go perfect with brunch, such as eggs, or even a roast chicken. It is a great way to use up stale bread.

I first cubed the bread, and tossed with olive oil, salt and pepper. Then I placed them on a baking sheet and baked at 425 for about 5 minutes, until lightly golden, but not crunchy like a crouton. Then I let them cool slightly as I chopped early girls, sliced red onion and finely chopped the herbs. I tossed in the bread. I dressed it with simple red wine vinaigrette. I first coat everything with oil, then toss, and then repeat with salt, pepper and red wine. I served it with a slice of Bodega goat cheese, which is creamy, not too strong, and a perfect complement to the sweet tomatoes. Eat and Enjoy!

Rose Bakery and Lamb Chops

2008-08-04T15:50:00.000-07:00

Not knowing the importance or deliciousness of Rose Bakery, I was intrigued by a simple summary in our guidebook: a London bakery in Paris using seasonal organic produce to make delicious scones, lunch and breakfast food. I had to go.
Up a winding street, filled with bucheries, patisseries, and produce stands, people lined up to purchase to go items.
We sat down to creamy scrambles eggs with a cheese and an herb scone accompanied by a corn and tomato salad. The scone was tall and tender. And the combination of all three was delicious. The pancakes were extremely fluffy but the berry sauce needed to be sweeter. I also enjoyed the fennel/apple salad with walnuts, which was crunchy, light and refreshing.
I was so captivated by this place and figuring out its’ highly regarded reputation, I came back for seconds. This time I had a savory tart of broccoli and smoked salmon. The crust was buttery and crispy and the broccoli and salmon were layered to ensure that every bite was in balance.
My boyfriend bought me the cookbook, where Rose, the owner handed me the copy. Returning home with my great big green book, I wanted to try to recreate the delicious meals I had in Paris. My first recipe was braised artichoke with lemon and grilled lamb chops.
Finding some baby artichokes at the farmers market and Sonoma raison loin lamb chops, I knew I had the ingredients that Rose herself would approve of.
Recipe Follows.
The artichokes were rich in flavor from braising, with just a hint of lemon. The mirepoix that they were cooked in was just as tasty. And the lemon and artichokes was a great earthy complement to the grilled lamb. It also makes a lovely presentation. Breakfast, Tea and Lunch is a great cookbook with beautiful pictures. I will say, the recipes aren’t exact because of measurement conversions and sometimes the recipe instructions are spotty. But after going to the establishment, it is not just a cookbook but also a keepsake.

Lamb Chops with Braised Artichokes and Lemon

Serves 6
Juice 2 lemons (for acidulated water)
12-14 medium globe artichokes (or smaller ones – which I prefer)
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for chops
3 onions finely diced
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch of ground black pepper
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 garlic cloves, crushed
About 3 cups vegetable or chicken stock
18 lamb chops
Chopped fresh flat leaf parsley, to garnish

Half-fill a large bowl of water and add lemon juice.
To prepare the artichokes, remove their stalks and the tips of their outer leaves, then peel them down to the light pale green leaves. Halve them and scoop out and discard the fuzzy inside.
Put the artichokes the acidulated water to stop them from turning brown.
Heat 4 tablespoons oil in a saucepan and cook the onions over a low heat until softened.
Add the celery, carrots, salt and pepper and lemon zest. Continue to cook over a low heat until all the vegetables are turning golden (nice carmelization has occurs) – about 15 minutes
Add the garlic and the artichoke hearts.
Pour enough stock to cover vegetables and simmer for about 25-20 minutes until the artichokes have just cooked and the liquid has reduced by half.
Check seasoning and set aside.
Season the chops and frill them, till they are cooked through but still slightly pink – about 5 minutes each side.
Serve with the artichokes on the side or underneath the chops. Garnish with parsley and Enjoy.

Dynamo Donuts

2008-08-02T23:39:00.000-07:00

Dynamo Donuts doesn’t refer to the décor or the smooth and creamy lattes but the explosion of flavor on your taste buds. Located in the mission district, this little donut/coffee stand is making quite the name for itself. A large stainless steal espresso machine sits on top chocolate colored tiles and a mossy green border. Three glass cake holders display the three flavors of the day. The idea is simple: great coffee and amazing donuts. These donuts are made with organic ingredients and possess an artisanal quality to them.

Today: Lemon thyme, Spicy Chocolate and my personal favorite Banana de leche.

Lemon Thyme was a yeast donut containing a light lemon flavor and a sprinkling of thyme in the dough. It had a lemon glaze with an herby undertone. Light and delicious

Spicy Chocolate a chocolate cake donut, which was ultra moist coated in sugar, spices and a bit of salt. A nice smokiness from the spice came through and worked well with the deep rich chocolate.

Banana de leche a yeast donut that was uncompromisingly fluffy rolled in sugar and filled with fresh sliced bananas and de leche. Oh so good.

The latte was equal to these all start donuts, creamy and frothy comparable to Blue Bottle.

We went very early in the morning before heading to the farmers market so there was no line; but be advised, I heard it gets crowded. Dynamo Donut is similar to Donut Plant (NYC) but quintessentially San Francisco, having exotic flavor combinations and serious coffee blending into the façade of the mission.

Dynamo Donuts and Coffee
2760 24th Street
(between Hampshire St & York St)
San Francisco, CA 94110
(415) 920-1978

WEEKNIGHT DINNER: My Take on Shrimp and Grits, Italian Style

2008-07-31T23:38:00.000-07:00

Oh those infamous shrimp and grits…not appealing to you? Well my Italian style will be. A simple substitution of grits for polenta turns this southern specialty into a Mediterranean summer meal. An easy yet beautiful weeknight dinner of creamy polenta, sautéed shrimp with lemon zest and garlic and sautéed summer corn finished with parsley and chives, plus a nice side of grilled summer squashes.
While this may not be the southern dish you have come to love, it mingles Mediterranean flavors in perfect harmony. Creamy polenta is finished with a splash of cream and butter, shrimp are perfectly paired with the sweet corn, and the zucchini provides a counter to all that sweetness. It makes a beautiful presentation, which would make it oh-so perfect for your next dinner party. Plus, this completely original recipe elevates the mundane weeknight cooking to gourmet. What could be better? Oh I know, letting you have the recipe. So here it is…
For the Creamy Polenta:
¾ cup coarse grain polenta
2 ¼ cup water + 1 cup to use if needed
Plus salt to taste
A good splash of heavy cream
1 tbs. butter

Sautéed Shrimp:
16 large shrimp de-veined and peeled
Zest of 1 lemon
2 garlic cloves, peeled, and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
1squeeze of lemon juice
1 tbs. of olive oil

Sautéed Corn:
3 Fresh corn husked, and cut off the cob
2 small chopped leeks
½ tbs. chopped fresh parsley
½ tbs. chopped fresh chives
1 tbs. olive oil

Grilled Summer Squash:
I used a grill pan…easier than starting the grill for one item.
A Variety of summer squash, about 4 or 5 sliced lengthwise into thin strips
1 tbs. olive oil
Salt and Pepper to Taste

Put 2 1/4-cup water into a pot and add a good amount of salt. Bring to a boil and whisk in cornmeal. Stir as much as you can, for about 25 to 30 minutes. Add water if it looks like it is getting to firm. When it is just about finished, add cream and butter and stir, and take off the heat.

Put all shrimp ingredients to a bowl and let sit until ready to cook.
Heat a sauté pan with just a little olive oil. Wait until the pan gets really hot. Place the shrimp in the pan, making sure to leave room between each shrimp. No overlapping. Cook on each side for 2 minutes. And you are done.

Heat olive oil a sauté pan and add the leeks. Let them sweat, 5 minutes. Then add the corn and season with salt and pepper. Cook until corn is tender and done, occasionally stirring, around 5 minutes. Take off heat and toss with parsley and chives.

Heat a grill pan, or turn on your grill, then coat your squash slices with olive oil and season each side with salt and pepper. Place slices on the grill, and turn when they have grill marks. When each side has good grill marks, they are done.

If you want a vegetarian version: skip the shrimp, lay the squash on top of the polenta with a sprinkling of corn and add a little lemon zest on top of everything.

Presentation:
Put a scoopful of polenta in the center of a plate. Place 4 shrimp on top of the polenta and sprinkle with your sautéed corn. Serve with squash on the side of the presentation.
ENJOY your delicious summer meal.

I paired this with a nice summer white, which was fruit forward and very drinkable.

What goes good with wine: SNOW BUNNY

2008-07-30T22:54:00.000-07:00

I ventured off to my first wine tasting this weekend after turning the infamous 21. Following the Russian river in search of great pinots, we passed by redwood trees, sunbathers and lots of tie-dye. Our first stop was Arista winery, which presented us with a smooth pinot. Then, it was Rochioli. Last week I drank one of their pinots that was quite good, but this one was lack luster. Our last winery was De La Montanya, while unimpressive at first; one by the name of Sybil was quite the seductress.
So what do you do after a long day of wine tasting in 104 degree whether?

GO GET SOME SNOW BUNNY! While the name is fitting for the hot conditions (wouldn’t we all love a soft but cold bunny to hold), this frozen yogurt stand is a well-appreciated treat.
Yeah, it puts Pink Berry to shame. But that’s what you would expect when it is made with delicious Strauss organic yogurt. It is creamy, refreshing yet quite light. Plus snow bunnies line the walls painted in bathtubs and on ski slopes.
The chocolate wasn’t too intense but wasn’t lacking in flavor like Mr. Softee (not that there is anything wrong with the beloved ice cream truck).
They have a weekly special flavor; last week, it was coconut. Seems fitting since I just made a coconut cake. But I opted for chocolate with raspberry sauce. But I asked to taste everything. I mean, wouldn’t you?
Now, I know Healdsburg is a bit out of the way, but you can make a day out of it. Picnic at the Russian river, hit a few wineries, visit Downtown Bakery in Healdsburg, the one in Ferry Market that makes the scrumptious donut muffin (a muffin that is very tender with cinnamon sugar topping) and then indulge in some frozen yogurt. Yogurt doesn’t have to be the main attraction, but it can be the cherry on top!

TARTINE Galettes and A Contest to Win the COOKBOOK!

2008-07-29T22:49:00.000-07:00

Tartine is a San Francisco establishment and rightfully so. But because of long lines and inconvenient location (at least for a Sunset girl), I opted to buy the cookbook and make some of their delicious treats. Last summer, I attempted the chocolate-layered ganache cake with caramel filling. But for a simpler fare, I recently made fruit galettes. You can make them with an assortment of fillings. I made a Gravenstein (Sebastopol) apple galette and two nectarine and strawberry galettes. The mixed stone fruit and berries made a nice pairing, plus I added some vanilla bean (from the pod) to give it a warm balanced taste. The crust is amazing. It is all about technique. Rolling out the butter makes the butter long and thin giving the crust a delicious flakiness and tenderness. I then sprinkled the crust with turbinado sugar, to give it a nice texture and color.
I would love to give you this recipe, but here’s the deal, it is about three pages long. The recipe itself is not that long but the explanation about technique and chilling (which are key) take a while. So, I am giving away a Tartine cookbook to the person who writes the most comments on my blog (incentive for you to read it and be rewarded!)
Here are the conditions for the CONTEST!
There is a 5 comment minimum to be considered. So no, if you comment once and you are the only person, you can’t win.
It will be tallied for a one-month period starting today.
I will email the winner, and get your address and I will send you a cookbook.
P.S There will not be a tie, so if you are tied, I might judge the quality of comments not only the quantity.

SO here’s to commenting and to good baking!

The Cream Always Rises to the Top

2008-07-28T22:35:00.000-07:00

Bottle vs. Carton: A Taste Test Between Clover vs. Strauss

I often wonder when looking at rows of seemingly exact products but with very different packaging, how much of it is packaging and how much of it is taste.
The question becomes even harder to answer when the product in question comes from a cow. The cow’s diet, stress level, overall life, processing of the dairy, shipment and numerous other factors can contribute to two very different products.
So how does Strauss organic cream, the one in the old fashion bottle taste in comparison to Clover organic cream, the one in the carton.
I pass Clover herds as we drive up to Bodega Bay. They seem happy (well, perhaps not happy, since I truly don’t know what makes these cows happy). I will say these are the only cows I have ever seen run, (and not because someone was chasing them) but just to run with other cows. I do know Strauss keeps their cows in the Sonoma region in pretty similar conditions.
But that bottle, the thick glass, the pure white inside, and the blue logo reminding consumers of 1950’s nostalgia, I love it, I fall for it and I buy it every time.
But this week I decided to let go of my love of the bottle and do a side-by-side taste test. I asked myself: Am I being fooled by a pretty exterior?
I took both cream homes and conducted a blind taste test, using my family members as other judges. Our initial impressions are the following:
Strauss was sweeter, yellow in color, heavier, with a smooth and fatty mouth feel. It contains a thick layer of buttery cream on the top making for a few clumps.
Clover possessed an almond-y (nutty) flavor, grassier (more cow like taste.) It was lighter and refreshing.
But we decided to go one step further. Let’s try both creams whipped, with intended purpose to use for fresh cut summer fruit.
While Clover whipped up quicker to a nice pure white consistency. Strauss' cream still was sweeter and was a better complement for the fruit.
I believe Strauss seems better in use of sweet dishes or desserts, such as whipped cream, custards or cakes. While Clover with it’s distinctive flavor would best be suited in sauces, home made cheese, mashed potatoes, scrambled eggs and in coffee or tea (because of the no clump factor.)
I baked some plain scones with clover cream which turned out very rich, yet tender and deliciously scrumptious. And to be honest, in cooking the cream, the differences are probably even more subtle.
So is the bottle all that it is hyped up to be? Probably not, the bottle doesn’t make good cream, the cows do.
And the bottle shouldn’t be the reason for your purchase. (You are probably thinking, I knew that) Yet, each cream has its merits and each cream deserves to be respected as such.
Personally, I like the nutty, grassy taste. It has a nice earthiness and complexity. Yet, for some Strauss’ sweetness and richness is more their style. Try to ignore the bottle and follow your taste.

The Almighty Coconut Cake

2008-07-24T18:40:00.000-07:00

After watching Alton Brown make a coconut cake truly from scratch, my parents and I set out to make it our family project. Trust me, you need a few hands. What mad inspiration took hold of us that spring evening that made us desire to recreate what we saw on TV? I am still not sure. Was it Alton’s savvy camera angles, or his handy tricks or his nostalgia for the perfect home made coconut cake symbolizing 1950’s Americana. Whatever captivated us; we were determined to become as passionate about this cake as he.
This week, we attempted to make this three page long recipe using all resources we had available: drill, mallet, cusinart, kitchen aid mixer, glass jars, spoons, knifes, scales and more kitchen appliances, plus six hands, three brains, and some tricky maneuvering. We first began purchasing two organic coconuts with no crying eyes. (If you look at the indentation marks on the bottom of the coconut, it should look like a face, but not a sad face, because that means the coconut is old, and we wouldn’t want an old coconut, at least this is what Alton Brown tells us.) We bring them home and begin.
First we drill holes, extract the coconut juice, then bake for 15 minutes until the outer exterior cracks and you can break it off. Although, this may sound easy, the outer exterior is one stubborn shell. Prying, tearing, hammering and fighting made us feel like Keith Richards after his coconut incident, a little woozy (but I guess he always feels that way.) After Family vs. The Coconut (a formidable competitor) we peeled the thin brown skin and grated the coconut chunks. We then made the extract which involved a very under priced bottle of vodka and some freshly grated coconut and a week’s time. Every night, I shook my bottle, waiting for extract to form. (Don’t sit there, the extract won’t mind.)
We then made fresh coconut cream and milk, with boiled two percent milk poured over two different quantities of grated coconut. This is then strained and saved until the baking process.
Which brings me to my next point, the baking. Measuring and following instructions is key. And my mom and I spared no expense. I mean common, we spent over week prepping, so we had to nail this. I am giving you the links to Alton’s Brown’s recipe so you can attempt all the adventures at home. After beating, mixing, accurately measuring (as if in some life or death science experiment) the golden fluffy cakes came out of the oven. We made the frosting and assembled the cake.
Each layer is sprayed with a light misting of coconut juice. All the elements of the coconut are used in the making of this cake, which makes you feel pretty good for all your hard work. This monster of a cake is smeared with a sticky sweet frosting and lots of grated coconut. The subtle, creamy coconut came through like never before. With the appearance of some giant snowball, it was light yet surprisingly had a richness due to the coconut milk and cream. After the first bite of this cloud like mass, it was well worth the effort.

Pasta and Italy

2008-07-17T23:26:00.000-07:00

Morels, Proscuitto, Rigatoni, Truffles, Oxtail, Cherry Tomatoes, Ricotta, fresh fettuccini, Chianti and panna cotta…Just some of the many ingredients and dishes that captured my tongue, took it hostage, then infiltrated my brain, scalding my memory forever. However disappointing our first meal in Italy was, a stale ol’ panini at the train station, the rest of Italy made up for. Actually, the panini was never quite what we expected. But all the rest was quite fantastic. The simple preparations only accentuated the deep appreciation and respect the Italians have for the quality of ingredients. Yet, we hold preconceived notions about Italians: that they know good food and they appreciate the land. We can’t forget that this is a generalization. You know what, some Italians go to McDonalds, and some pick up pre-made this and that. On the other hand, the restaurants I frequented whether “authentic” or not seemed to value seasonality and simplicity. Pasta is the perfect example of this appreciation. And we had our share of it.
The first night began with the all-delicious creamy gnocchi tossed with morels and prawns. The combination struck the perfect balance between earthiness (morels) and sea flavor (prawns). It was an ode to land and sea, like a sophisticated surf and turf.
In Rome, a restaurant by the name of Pasta in Mani offered orecchiette with plump bursting sweet cherry tomatoes, with creamy bright green fava beans tossed with olive oil and topped with shaved black truffles, giving the dish an earthiness which balanced the sweetness of its counterparts. The pasta was a-la-dente and no cheese was necessary.
Another pasta favorite was the drunken pasta. This highly acidic, violently purple and deep in flavor seems quite unusual, yet the starchy quality of the pasta plays against the highly acidic, omni present wine. Some were executed with a bit more finesse; the wine didn’t overwhelm the pasta but brought out not only an acid component but the qualities of the wine itself. This pasta doesn’t look as absurdly purple and provides a more subtle and complex flavor. (Absurdly purple and acidic pasta shown.)
Finally, one of my favorite pasta’s was rigatoni à l’atranciata. I am not great at Italian, but from what I gather, this sauce can vary quite a bit. It tasted surprisingly like my mother’s pasta sauce, which is a secret I can’t give away. Needless to say, the rigatoni pasta is the perfect shape to capture this hearty tomato sauce; the ridges get filled up and the circular tube allows for sauce to seep in. I will indulge you with more on this meal later on.
Another way to enjoy the bounty that is pasta is to buy it. Buying fresh pasta and preparing at our Rome apartment was a great way to experience the quality of the ingredients. I love to cook with great, fresh ingredients. I kept in simple: fettuccini tossed with butter “de campagna”, olive oil, fresh cherry tomatoes, black pepper and some parmesan cheese. Delicious!

More to Come ....................

Ohh...if we all could be raised on wolf's milk...

Returned from European Vacation

2008-06-27T14:21:00.000-07:00

I just recently returned from my vacation where I visited Italy (Florence, Rome), Germany (Berlin), France (Paris). It was amazing, to say the least: great produce, perfect baguette, and don't forget the currywurst! I have so much to tell you all, pictures to show and even a few restaurants to recommend. Plus, I will be returning to the Bay (San Francisco that is) with more great recipes and restaurants to share. And finally, yes it is true, I will be attending cooking school very shortly and I can't wait to tell you about my trials and tribulations. Despite my trepidations about wearing white coats, I am excited to pick up a knife, get a few burns and cook anything and everything. I look forward to hearing your thoughts!

Chopped Mexican Salad with Orange-Lime Cumin Vinaigrette

2008-05-19T19:14:00.000-07:00

What is more refreshing on a hot humid day than salad?
A chopped salad. Perhaps it is the uniform cubes or the ability to get a bite of everything in one mouthful that makes chopped salads pretty high up on the salad hierarchy. This salad is composed of vivid summer colors exemplifying the bounty of summer produce, like tomatoes, peppers and corn. The orange lime cumin vinaigrette gives this salad the acidity it needs while making it taste refreshing and summery. This salad really shines with the roasted peppers and corn. The corn has a nice complex sweet flavor and the peppers freshly roasted are intensely sweet. Make sure to toast your cumin until fragrant for a deeper flavor.

I got this recipe from Fine Cooking: FRESH (yes, it lives up to its name)

I used chicken instead of jicama to make this salad suitable for a meal. I use chicken breast seasoned with salt, paprika, chili powder and a little cumin and then sautéed and don’t forget, chopped.

Roasted Veggies:
2 large peppers (red or orange)
2 ears of corn
1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and black pepper

Orange-Lime Cumin Vinaigrette
1 small clove garlic
Kosher salt
3 Tbs. fresh lime juice
3 Tbs. fresh orange juice
2 tsp. chopped shallot
¾ tsp. cumin seeds toasted and ground
¼ cup good olive oil
freshly ground pepper

Assembly:
2 large firm tomatoes, cored, seeded and cut into ¼ inch dice
1 small jicama, peeled and cut into ¼ inch dice
2 large firm avocados, peeled cut into ¼ inch dice
1 15oz. can black beans drained and rinsed
¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro
Roast Peppers and Corn:
Position rack in the center of oven and set to 425. Place husked and cleaned corn and peppers (cut into half and seeded) onto foil wrapped baking sheet. Drizzle olive oil to coat. (Rub olive oil on the corns) and sprinkle with salt. Then roast for about 20 minutes until kernels are lightly browned and peppers are soft.
After removing and cooling, scrape the pepper skin and chop into ½ inch dice. Remove corn kernels from the cob.
Make the Vinaigrette:
Mince and mash clove of garlic with ¼ tsp. salt. In a medium bowl whisk the garlic paste, lime, orange juice, shallot, honey and toasted cumin. Slowly add the oil while whisking (EMULSION!!!!) Season with pepper to taste.
Assemble the salad: Use a big serving platter and cluster each chopped ingredient into a little pile next to each other. Look at the picture. Sprinkle with cilantro. Then drizzle the vinaigrette all over.

So yummy and refreshing! Even the non-salad eaters will chomp on this one (trust me!) I served it with my favorite tortilla chips and called it a meal.

More sugary treats, (not for the heart attacked inclined) DONUT PLANT

2008-03-10T16:06:00.000-07:00

Is that butter, yeast and cinnamon I smell?

Why yes…that is the donut plant’s intoxicating smell as you open the door to a small counter packed with ephemeral donuts (1. Because people keep buying them 2. You can eat them quicker than you think.) Many have praised donut plant, I am not the first: Martha Stewart, NY times, Vogue have all claimed the splendors of this donut. While they are expensive for the average donut ($1.50 to 2), these donuts are far from average. They are organic, un-processed heart attack rings. I say this because it almost sounds like an anomaly, donuts, which pack quite the calorie load are well made with quality ingredients (making them morally responsible) that put them well slightly lower on “FOOD THAT WILL KILL (if consumed in large quantities) LIST.”
Donuts are found virtually on every block in NYC, it is hard to tell them apart (especially when they are all Dunkin' Donuts.) But these donuts are different: the cake donuts taste like a dense cupcake, while the yeast donuts have an airy chewy texture. What I love most are the exotic flavors: dulce de leche, fresh orange donut (lots of fresh orange zest in the glaze), pb&j donut (a peanut butter glazed donut with blackberry jelly in the center), passion fruit, Verona chocolate, cinnamon etc... I was late getting there, so I wasn’t able to try all the donuts. The pb&J stood out, perhaps in a Proustian way evocative of childhood memories. This donut achieved greatness because of the peanut butter exterior, not to rich, crunchy with a scattering of peanuts, and a playful way to re-invent the classic lunch sandwich.
Nonetheless, as Proust to his Madeline, the donut that brings me back to my childhood has to be the basic crawler chocolate glaze from the donut shop near my house. Doughier and chewier, at least in my memory, a chocolate covered braid with a side order of donut holes were always brought home. My father and I would devour them, and like a good daughter I proceeded to eat whatever my father ordered. He quickly learned to order the same thing. Why the anecdotal childhood story, perhaps Donut Plant recalled an unattainable past. Obviously, Donut Plant could not match the overly romanticized donut, nor will any other. Yet, Donut Plant, could be a new ritual, these donuts are definitely worth it. They are delicious, super inventive, ethically responsible (something I look for in a donut) and a mighty fine culinary adventure.

I would like to apologize to my partner in donut eating for the rash treatment at the donut plant. As we arrived at the Donut Plant, we realized we had no cash (which you need in order to buy these babies). I then saw a large group of tourist entering the plant. I freak out. Perhaps it was the intoxicating smell, or the glistening donuts. But I WANTED A DONUT AND I DIDNT WANT THEM TO GO AWAY. Unfortunately, when I returned from getting cash, all the chocolate varieties had vanished into mouths. But, they are just donuts and unlike tourist I can go back whenever I would like and get them. Again, sorry to my donut partner…for letting my taste buds get in the way of rational thought.

The Quest for the Almond Croissant

2008-03-01T14:51:00.000-08:00

Ever since I praised the Almond Croissant from Taralucci e Vino in the east village (1st Avenue at the corner of 10th street). I have been unable to attain the flaky golden crescent. I feel as if my word of mouth traveled too quickly. No longer can I savor the double baked goodness, the sweet almond interior, or the crispy almonds on top.
Apparently, a mysterious lady, I will name her Ms. Almond Snatcher comes in every morning and robs me of my mouthly pleasures. From the store officials, she comes in and buys six of the croissants leaving the rest a measly few. Since these luxurious pastries can only be made from day old croissant* there is a limited amount. How can I reclaim what is MINE. How can I get one of these delights I foolishly proclaimed as the “superior pastry.” I should have never told a soul…

How can I get the Almond Croissant?

Plan 1: I could wake up earlier, and walk the 5 blocks to get the croissant.
Plan 2: I could track down Ms. Almond Snatcher. Leave menacing notes about how if she keeps buying soo many she will turn into almond. And I will threaten that I will take this matter up with the authorities, the cops. They care about pastries; they understand the value of these morning treats!

After long debate, I will go with plan 1, even though plan 2 is far more exciting, the probability of me getting the croissant seems more unlikely and to be honest more time consuming.
So this morning, I got up early…earlier than usual and got one of these delightful almond croissant. Successful Quest, INDEED!!

Now if I could just get some sort of delivery system…..

*You are wondering why they use day old pastries? No, this isn’t a rip off. They slice open the croissant, spread a thin layer of marzipan in it and sprinkle with almonds. Then it goes back into the oven where it crisps up. It is actually the reason I like them more than a regular croissant: EXTRA CRISPY AND ALMONDY SWEET!!

Wild Salmon, Roasted Potatoes, Wild Mushrooms and Sage

2008-02-20T12:52:00.001-08:00

Wild Salmon is oh so good and the mushrooms and potatoes add a nice touch of earthiness. The mushrooms get slightly crispy and the potatoes are enhanced by the sage and mushroom flavors. The salmon plays up this “earthy” quality. This is a great winter meal that can be appropriate for entertaining, as it would be a dinner for one. It is also very quick and easy. I came up with the recipe as I picked up these beautiful shitake and oyster mushrooms from the NYC greenmarket.

I begin by roasting the potatoes and mushrooms. Then I make a quick marinade for the salmon and throw the salmon on top for the last minutes of cooking.

5 red potatoes (fingerlings would be great) in thick slices
2 big handfuls of assorted mushrooms (shitake and oyster in my case…but chanterelles and porcinis would be great) roughly chopped
4 large sage leaves finely chopped
Olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Pre-heat oven to 400. Combine mushrooms, potatoes and sage, toss with olive oil, salt and pepper and place in a shallow roasting pan. Put in the oven. In the mean time…

1 Lemon (juiced)
2 Salmon Fillets
Dash of white wine
Dash of olive oil
Salt and Pepper to taste

Place the salmon in a pie pan. Pour lemon juice, white wine and olive oil. Sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Let stand for a few minutes

In the last 10 minutes, (if your fillets are thicker, allow more time) place the fillets on top of your roasted veggies.
For the last minute or two, place under the broil to attain a caramelized color. Be careful not to overcook the salmon, I like mine undercooked if anything.

Serve and Enjoy.

Restaurant Week: The Modern Bar Room

2008-02-04T16:46:00.000-08:00

Restaurant week is such an exciting time: the promise of eating at fine dining establishments for a very reasonable price. Never partaken in the madness of restaurant week, I expected the worst (not because I am some pessimist, but the price seemed a little too good to be true): crappy choices on the prix fixe menu, maddening crowds, rude waiters and waitresses (not getting the usual large tips.) But I found something quite different: polite and cordial wait staff, wonderful selections and orderly customers.

The MODERN (BAR ROOM):
Although I relish in past times, forgotten times embodied in type writers, bicycles, pre-industrial farming, record players and analog tape. I can’t help but love the MODERN. Actually, it isn’t that I can’t help it, I want to love the Modern and I do. It is one of my top restaurants. This doesn’t mean it will be yours but it is mine. WHY??
I love:
• Orchids and really awesome floral arrangements
• Pristine kitchens, glowing with shiny immaculate counters
• Restaurants inside one of my favorite museums (MOMA)
• Great cocktails: ones that have flowers in them (I like flowers)
• Really nice wait staff
• UNISEX bathrooms and beautiful sinks
• Chefs who incorporate their own culture and heritage: Merci Alsace!
• Cool utensils i.e. the silver spork
• OH did I mention, well executed, balanced and thoughtful food

But despite the chic scenester ambiance, the food is what makes me to be quite honest, drool. I would eat everything off the menu and very happily. What is great about the Modern is you choose directly off the menu, a rarity for restaurant week where choices are limited. Yes, the decision is agonizing, but I am reassured in knowing that whatever I choose will be delightful. The menu consists of small plates to be either shared or enjoyed hedonistically by yourself.
Our meal:
Alsace sausage, with homemade sourkrawt and mustard: I never knew sausage could taste like this, juicy and using great quality meat.
Upside Tuna Tarte: as aesthetically pleasing as palatable.
Duck Confit with blood orange sauce and kale with pancetta: what a great take on duck confit, the blood orange gives it a much needed citrus, while the kale supplies the earthiness.
Olive encrusted quail with barley, toasted almonds and chorizo: Spanish influenced, quail is tender and the olives didn’t overwhelm it, but added a nice salty outside.

I must highly emphasis the desserts at the Modern. Since the first time I went to the Modern, I craved their beignets. It is as if the pastry chef is connected to my taste buds.
Apple strudel with prune ice cream
Salted caramel parfait with coconut tapioca and mango sorbet
To visit: www.themodernnyc.com

Pizzetta 211

2008-01-23T19:53:00.000-08:00

Tucked between rows of Richmond boxes, Pizzetta both fits perfectly into its location and stands out as an anomaly. Pizzetta is known throughout San Francisco, yet its very secluded location makes sure not to draw attention to itself. The farm-like interior, and small amounts of seating makes this place cozy as well as (on occasion) cramped. I refer to the people working there as the hipsters of the food world: cool, nonchalant, and elitist at the same time. The young and rather attractive staff knows good food, but frowns upon the rich Sea Cliff women that come in for their pizza fix.
But despite the charming décor, the food is what draws the crowds. Food is simple, delicious, and uncomplicated. I would say artisanal; pizza becomes a craft, as they thinly roll out the dough, gently construct layers of balanced taste, and place it into the oven. The crust is paper thin and crispy, even thinner than NY pizza. (Sorry Grimaldi's)
Pizzetta’s basic pizza: tomato sauce, mozzarella, drizzled with pesto after cooking is addictive. The pesto is not overpowering and you taste fresh olive oil (not grease). We ordered a pizza which was composed of cheese, fresh fava shoots, egg, roasted potatoes and sautéed nettles. The egg was cooked perfectly. The white created a layer over the pizza while the yolk was just the right consistency, oozing and creating a faux-pizza sauce. We also had yellow beets with blood orange vinaigrette. While the simplicity of the side was refreshing, you could not taste the blood orange in the vinaigrette whatsoever.
To finish off the meal, we ordered desert: the goat cheese and kumquat tart. The goat cheese curd was not overpowering, in fact it tasted very creamy. The tart crust was buttery and delicious while the kumquats balanced the creamy with acidity and tartness. A great winter treat. This pizza place emphasizes the seasonality of food. Seasonal foods make such a difference, because they are at their peak. (But you knew that.) Chefs at Pizzetta let the ingredients speak for themselves, and pizza merely acts as their canvas.
Pizzetta has a small menu, daily pizzas, one or two sides or salads and two desserts. As with everything at Pizzetta, the menu is simple yet sophisticated. Just as an artist, some chefs don’t know when the dish is finished. They keep adding more and more components and intricacies. But the chefs at Pizzetta got the art of minimalism down to perfection. It works. The food is uncomplicated but achieving greatness nonetheless.

Taqueria de Anda

2008-01-14T23:49:00.000-08:00

What is better in the morning than Chinese food and leftover Pizza?
TACOS !!!
And I am not talking about any breakfast burrito. I am talking about spicy little wonders. So yes, you have heard about these wonders once before. But you haven’t tried these little fiestas in your mouth. Taqueria de Anda relit my fervor for tacos last year. These tacos were the ones that haunted my dreams. I walked the busy streets of New York longing and yearning for the taste.
Despite its uncanny resemblance to an old MacDonald's, a giant play structure sits outside the building, what matters is the inside. This is what I consider a true Happy Meal: Super size horchata and four chicken tacos.
But don’t let these appearances deny you of true yumminess. They get so crowded at night (because of the night club in the back), that they have a taco truck stationed outside the restaurant. In addition, they serve pig intestines, cow’s head, and tongue plus the usual carnitas, pollo and carne asada. The first time I went there, they did not even have cheese. (Traditionally, there is no cheese on tacos) There expertise is one thing: TACOS.
The man who prepares the taco does it with such finesse. He takes two small tortillas in his palm, then grabs red chicken and then goes in again for cilantro and onions. Finally he tosses the green sauce on top, a little jump in the air before the sauce reaches the chicken landing pad. He does this in about 5 seconds much shorter than it has taken me to describe. His movements are fluid and demonstrates that he has been doing this for a while.
What makes these chicken tacos better than others? The meat. The chicken is very tender and pulls apart yet it has a coating of red spices. With these delicious tacos, they serve fresh jalapeno slices, onions, cilantro, red sauce, green sauce and key limes (sweet little limes that give these tacos a balance of acidity.) Sounds familiar, well every good taco in my book (the taco bible) is served with key limes.
They have multiple locations, so one is always within reach in the vast expanses of Orange County. But for you who stay away from Southern California ( and you should), you should feel a tang of guilt that you cast aside all OC as flashy cars, bikinis, strip malls and a feeling you can’t shake off that is what hell must be like. But if you look hard, Southern California has little niches of cultural vibrancy displaying its grandeur through delectable bites, one being the ultimate Taco.
www.taqueriadeanda.com (Beware of tacky website - don't let this dissuade you)

Chicken n' Waffles

2008-01-10T20:34:00.000-08:00

Upon passing you might think Roscoe's is a church, with its high steeple, its practitioners waiting outside, and its almost home-like interior with winding stairs. But in this church, they worship the chicken and waffle god. They pray by eating all the fried chicken, gravy, grits and waffles they can devour. Upon entering, chicken is the defining iconography at this cathedral of fryness. They have chicken statues, chicken printed curtains, chicken menus and also the main star, FRIED CHICKEN.
I have heard of Roscoe's inconsistency with the dryness of their fried chicken or the sometimes-soggy waffles. Despite my worries and anticipation, I found that the chicken had a crunchy crispy and flavorful exterior, with a tender and moist interior. The waffles also were crisp yet fluffy. They are presented on two separate plates. But don’t let this fool you, they were meant to be eaten together. The combo is what is important. You can’t have one with out the other, like the trinity, you need chicken, waffle and maple syrup. It creates an addictive tasty balance of salty and sweet, crunchy and fluffy. Roscoe’s sides are not what you are coming here for. If you are, DON’T! The place is called Roscoe’s Chicken n’Waffles for a reason. So get what the chicken and waffle lord wanted you to get, and you will be plenty satisfied.
Yes, the wait is long. And I wondered if it would live up to the legacy. But in looking back, it would not have mattered if it weren't delicious. Chicken and Waffles has become an experience, an integral part of how I see Americana. By the numbers waiting, I can see its importance is not limited to myself. For many of us, we love fried food and sweet syrupy goodness, but I love even more getting the feeling of taking part in a tradition.

Simple Crab Cakes and Red Pepper Sauce

2008-01-01T14:57:00.000-08:00

Because crabs look like evil aquatic spiders (and I am very afraid of all arachnids), I get plenty of satisfaction from naming the crabs (for instance, this Christmas I ate Willy) and then plunging them into their boiling deaths. But don’t think I am too sadistic; the humane thing to do is to chill them. This puts your sea friends in a comma. Here, they can dream about pinching humans and roaming the ocean floors finding that hottie crab they saw yesterday.
I enjoy Dungeness crab, the pride of San Francisco. For the freshest crab, I recommend scouring the coastline, and heading away from the city limits. We get our crab fresh off the boat in Bodega Bay. Firstly, they taste so fresh and secondly this is much more humane than keeping them in holding tanks for weeks on end. I mean despite my dislike for them, I know that I would not want to be stuck in a room full of other crabs. On the first day that we get the crabs, we steam them and then roast them with garlic and ginger. Finger licking good! But, with the leftover crab, we take the succulent little meat out of their shells and make the most delectable crab cakes I have ever tasted.
The problem with the majority of crab cakes is that there is very little crab. Our recipe is all crab with just a little breadcrumbs, parsley, red pepper and egg for binding. We keep it simple allowing the crab to be the star. We try to keep the crab in lumps in order to get nice meaty pieces. And we make a red pepper sauce, which is super quick and easy to dollop on top. This sauce is a nice complement to the sweet crab and makes a delicious garnish.

Simple Crab Cakes

2 ½ cups crab (in good chunky pieces)
¼ cup breadcrumbs
¼ cup chopped red bell pepper
2 tablespoons parsley
2 eggs beaten
Salt and pepper to taste

Add breadcrumbs, red bell pepper, parsley and salt and pepper into a bowl containing the crab. Incorporate the beaten egg. Use more breadcrumbs if too loose. Or add more egg if to dry. This is your judgment call. But the true test is if they can form patties. Also remember: adding too many breadcrumbs will result in a more pasty crab cake and take away from the delicious crabbiness (not the state of being). Then, form the crab mix into 10 patties about 5 inches in diameter. But this is your preference. If you are serving them as an appetizer, make them bite size. Place them on a cookie sheet lined with wax paper. Place another sheet of wax paper over them and then refrigerate them for an hour (more is fine). If you are rushed for time, a half hour will do, but don’t blame me if they fall apart. After chilling, and removing from the fridge, heat a large skillet with olive oil on medium heat. Place your crab cakes into the skillet, making sure to allow space between them for even browning. Keep the temperature on medium, (NOT HIGH), you want to be sure the egg is cooked all the way through. Flip them when brown on first side about 5 – 10 minutes depending on your stovetop. After both sides are brown, serve immediately with red pepper sauce. (Recipe below)

Red Pepper Sauce

I make this sauce while the crab cakes are chilling

1 onion thinly sliced
2 red bell peppers thinly sliced.
Salt and Pepper
Olive oil if necessary

Heat a skillet with olive oil to coat. Sauté red peppers and onions till soft and slightly caramelized (at least 15 minutes). Make sure to season with salt and pepper while cooking. After cooking, put in food processor and puree. Depending on the thickness of the puree, add olive oil until it forms a thick sauce. It really looks more like a puree. Re-season if necessary. Serve a dollop on top of each crab cake.

Enjoy the bounty that these aquatic spiders have to offer!

Spice Cookies

2007-12-23T23:16:00.000-08:00

Holiday cookies can be troublesome and time consuming. And frankly I am not sure if Santa even likes them. He probably picks the best, eats those select few and leaves your sad pathetic sugar cookies with the sack of coal he left for you. ( I obviously think Santa is quite the gourmand.) So, in order to get the gifts you deserve, entice him with some of these spice cookies. For these holiday cookies, the recipe was given to me and taught by my grandmother, and this year, my mother and I spent the night making these delicious, wafer spiced cookies. These cookies are based off of the Swedish ginger cookies called pepparkakor; they are very fragrant, spiced, with ginger, cardamom, cinnamon and cloves recalling the scents and smells of the holiday season. They are wafer like and crispy and keep you wanting more. Yes, they are difficult, but I know you are up for the challenge and guess what, after you make them you can sip on a cup up of tea and enjoy the fruits of your labor, in this case the cookies of your labor. These cookies can make great holiday gifts because they hold up well. You can shape them into little men, even porcupines if you wish. And they are quite versatile: you could serve them with ice cream, put caramel between them and make sandwiches or decorate them with royal icing.

Spiced Cookies
Makes 8-10 dozen cookies

1 cup butter (softened)
1 cup sugar
½ cup brown sugar
1 egg
½ cup cream
1/3 cup honey mixed with 2 ½ tablespoons of mollases
2 tsp. cinnamon
2 tsp. cloves
2 tsp. ginger
2 tsp. freshly ground cardamom seeds
1 tsp. baking soda
3 ½ cups flour

Preheat oven to 350
Sift dry ingredients, including flour, baking soda, and the spices and set aside.
Cream butter and sugars, both white and brown, till light and fluffy. Then add the egg and then the cream and then the honey/molasses mixing well after each addition.
Incorporate the dry ingredients into the wet and mix thoroughly. Cover bowl tightly and chill in refrigerator over night.
Take out small portions of dough and roll the ball out on a lightly floured surface. Roll dough out very thin and cut into desired shapes (I like ridged circles or plain circles).
Place on a lightly greased cookie sheets and bake at 350 for 10-12 minutes

Abby’s Suggestions and Tips:
Freshly ground cardamom is far superior for making the cookies spicier and fresh tasting.
In order to do this, buy whole cardamom pods, take a rolling pin and crush the pods. The pods will open, revealing the black seeds inside. Take the seeds and grind them either with a mortar and pestle or with a coffee grinder.
If this is too much work, no worries: simply purchase ground cardamom (I won’t judge and neither will the cookies)
Also I substituted the dark corn syrup my grandmother used for a healthier and more flavorful option, which is the honey/molasses combination. It adds a honey flavor and a deep rich flavor of molasses. But if you do not have these ingredients readily available and do have dark corn syrup, use ½ cup.
Make sure the dough is sufficiently chilled before rolling. This will avoid stickiness and make it more manageable. I recommend keeping it in the fridge while rolling out a section.
Rolling out the dough is the most challenging part. So BEWARE. Follow my 5 golden rolling rules and you will lead to cookie success.
1. They will be sticky so have flour on hand. But don’t use more than absolutely necessary, otherwise the cookies will taste floury.
2. Be gentle with the rolling pin, use gentle strokes. Trust me!
3. Use small amounts of dough when you are rolling it out, it will be more manageable.
4. Use a metal spatula to lift the cookies off the rolling surface and on to the cookie sheet.
5. Make sure to roll them out as thin as possible, these cookies were meant to be thin and crispy.

ENJOY and you will be rewarded both by Santa and your taste buds!

For the Love of Tacos...

2007-12-21T23:17:00.001-08:00

TACOS TACOS!!! I LOVE TACOS, but my taco epiphany came last summer in Southern California at a Taco stand and restaurant called Taqueria de Anda. These bite size wonders (I call them wonders because they are considered one of my seven wonders of the world) are delectable, addictive and haunt my dreams. For every respected Californian, tacos are apart of our collective memory. We defend our favorite tacos vehemently and when we are away from our holy land of tacos, we remember better times, when tacos and mouths are reunited.
In attempts to fulfill some deep Californian need, to search, find and devour tacos in any location, I set out for taco hunting in New York. Searching for tacos takes a lot more work than in San Francisco, where you can find an abundance of tacos and variations. I was under the assumption that my yearning for excellent tacos would never be fulfilled in New York. In Manhattan, Mexican restaurants make claims to having “authentic” “San Franciscan” burritos. But the beans lack the luster of the lardy-spiced beans of San Francisco, the guacamole is watery and the tortillas are shameful. But, in venturing out of Manhattan, a surprise of wonderful tacos awaits. Brooklyn acts as host to a vibrant community of taco making people.
And today, after Ric’s ingenious discovery, I tried a truly exemplary taco. Off the L train on the Jefferson stop, between Wyckoff and Starr a tortilla factory called Los Hermanos is busy making hundreds of tortillas. The humid tortilla-fied air greets you as you enter. There is a stand inside the taco factory where you can order tacos made with the freshest of tortillas. There is no division between the tortilla factory and the stand for tacos. During your lunch, you can watch women busy at work making stacks of tortillas and piling them into boxes to be shipped. When I came, three men from a Mariachi band were sitting with their backs turned and their cowboy hats eating their lunch (see picture). Virgin Marys are plastered against the wall and kitschy statues of animal and their young sit at the counter. The lady at the counter, who also cooks everything, barely reaches the height of the corner. All you can see is the top of a head as you give her your order.
The chicken tacos are by far the best. The tortillas are nice and warm and slightly toasted. Expect these tortillas to be thicker and chewier than the flour tortillas found at your grocery store. This is a different breed of tortilla all together. They have a slight sweetness of corn and a grainy texture. And they make you realize the extreme importance tortillas have in creating a great taco. They are filled with pulled chicken which has a mild flavor, lettuce, cilantro, onions and a drizzle of sour cream. They serve them with limes and red or green sauce. The limes add some much needed acidity along with my favorite, the mild green sauce that gives a kick. Yet, if you are a spicy fan, it won’t even reach your fire-o-meter. The tacos are simple, uncomplicated and a soft flavor. They are not overwhelming nor an explosion in your mouth. If you are craving a more intense taco, I would suggest the chorizo taco, which is a vibrant red color mirroring its highly aromatic and spiced nature. In my opinion, the chorizo was too greasy, but hey some people like that kind of thing.
I tried as well a beef pacados, which is a fried tortilla with refried beans on top, than beef, then sour cream and queso fresco. I thought this was a little greasy, dull in flavor and you didn’t get the super fresh quality of the tortilla that makes this place so special. I highly recommend taking the L train and fetching yourself some tacos, some coca colas (à la Mexican = Real Cane Sugar) and oh don’t forget some tortillas for the road. And don’t worry, if you get lost, follow your nose; you can smell the tortillas from 2 blocks away.